FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Twelve
Chapter Twelve
Chapter Twelve: The Romantic Era
1. Allison Boyes: Bishop Sleeve
A bishop sleeve during this period was made with a row of vertical pleats at the shoulder that released into a soft full sleeve gathered to a fitted cuff at the writ. This style of bishop sleeve was popular until the 1840’s. Sleeves during this time had removable cotton or linen linings that allowed regular laundering. The bishop sleeve was considered more practical than the gigot sleeve because it could be rolled up to do chores or jobs. The bishop sleeve gathers at the upper arm, not the shoulder.
2. Burnous - Allison Boyes
A burnous, is a cloak worn by women that is very loose in shape so that it can easily drape over the large hoop skirts. It is a large mantle of about three quarter length with a hood, and the name and style deriving from a similar garment worn by arabs who lived in the middle eastern deserts. “draping into a hooded swath at the back and tied at the front neckline by matching coloured silk cords…these burnous capes fall gracefully down the back, where they finish at half or full length”
Sources: Metropolitan Museum Art’s Costume Collection online: 1981.49.4a, b and C.I.60.11.1.
https://thedreamstress.com/2012/05/terminology-what-is-a-burnous/
Survey of Historic Costume
3. Canezou - Jada Cordon
This was an accessory for the women. It was basically like a spencer but smaller and didn’t have sleeves. It was worn over the bodice. Similar to the pelerine.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
4. Chatelaine- Maggie Morton
Chatelaines were ornamental chains worn at the waist. Attached to these chains were useful items such as scissors, thimbles, hooks, buttons, and penknives. Other necessary items might’ve been notebooks, tiny perfume bottles, or coin purses. Many chatelaines were inscribed with a symbol of some sort, referencing their original namesake. The word comes from French: “lady of the castle.” They were often shown as a symbol of status among the household. The female head of a French household typically wore one containing their estate’s keys. Women’s clothing did not have very many pockets and their purses weren’t very large, so some women needed to carry these necessary objects around the waists. Up until the early 20th century, they were no longer needed because purses grew in size and fashions shifted.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/75716/show-tell-19th-century-chatelaine https://www.langantiques.com/university/chatelaine/
5. Chesterfield- Maggie Morton
The chesterfield was a type of coat worn by men that had no waistline seam, a short vent in the back, no side pleats, and often had a velvet collar. The velvet collar was a defining feature since the coat was so simple and loose fitting. It also had straight side pockets and no cuffs. It had either a single- or double- breasted closing. Generally, it was about knee-length and usually gray or black.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/chesterfield-overcoat/
https://www.gq.com/story/dropping-knowledge-the-chesterfield
6. Curricle Coat- Rebecca Odd
A large loose coat with one or more capes at the shoulder
7. Demi-gigot Sleeve - Rebecca Odd
Gigot is the French word for the back leg of an animal, especially of a lamb or sheep. The gigot sleeve, also called the leg-of-mutton sleeve, was named for its resemblance to a sheep’s hind leg: wide at the top and narrow at its bottom.
8. Eton Suit -Lexy Holman
A short single breasted jacket that was a basic style for young boys from about 1830-1900. When a boy turned 5 or 6 he graduated from the skirt and dress. The eton suit derived from the school boy clothing worn at Eton school in England. The front was cut square and the lapels were wide with a turned down collar. The suit was completed with a tie, vest, or waistcoat and trousers.
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159430
http://histclo.tripod.com/tunic.html
9.Fichu Pelerine - Elizabeth Gibbons
In the romantic period, the fichu pelerine was a wide, capelike collar which extended over the shoulders and had two wide lappets extending down the front of the dress. The pelerine part was in reference to the collar, and the fichu term added referred to the front panels which extended down the front of the dress and tucked into the dress. This term was adopted because a fichu is a shawl that would drape over the shoulders, created to cover the revealing low neckline of bodices in the late 18th to early 19th century.
https://pieceworkmagazine.com/what-is-a-fichu/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/fichu/
https://www.alamy.com/stock-image-pelerine-date-mid-19th-century-culture-irish-medium-cotton-credit-168186945.html?pv=1&stamp=2&imageid=D5DC5483-262B-4021-B246-24635FD6872E&p=787007&n=0&orientation=0&pn=2&searchtype=0&IsFromSearch=1&srch=foo%3dbar%26st%3d0%26pn%3d2%26ps%3d100%26sortby%3d2%26resultview%3dsortbyPopular%26npgs%3d0%26qt%3dpelerine%26qt_raw%3dpelerine%26lic%3d3%26mr%3d0%26pr%3d0%26ot%3d0%26creative%3d%26ag%3d0%26hc%3d0%26pc%3d%26blackwhite%3d%26cutout%3d%26tbar%3d1%26et%3d0x000000000000000000000%26vp%3d0%26loc%3d0%26imgt%3d0%26dtfr%3d%26dtto%3d%26size%3d0xFF%26archive%3d1%26groupid%3d%26pseudoid%3d%26a%3d%26cdid%3d%26cdsrt%3d%26name%3d%26qn%3d%26apalib%3d%26apalic%3d%26lightbox%3d%26gname%3d%26gtype%3d%26xstx%3d0%26simid%3d%26saveQry%3d%26editorial%3d1%26nu%3d%26t%3d%26edoptin%3d%26customgeoip%3d%26cap%3d1%26cbstore%3d1%26vd%3d0%26lb%3d%26fi%3d2%26edrf%3d%26ispremium%3d1%26flip%3d0%26pl%3d
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
10. Gilet corsage - Elizabeth Gibbons
Gilet is French for waistcoat, and corsage is French for bodice. The gilet corsage was a type of women’s jacket that resembled a man’s waistcoat.
https://thedreamstress.com/2012/05/terminology-when-a-corsage-wasnt-flowers/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilet
https://www.chegg.com/flashcards/19th-century-1820-1840-b172937f-1d24-4ef7-b8d1-7f0e3c200fbb/deck
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/515662226054709722/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
11. Hussar Front/Beak (Waistcoat) - Jada Cordon
This was the point at the front of the waistcoats. The men would wear these and the beak started to develop in the 184os. It didn’t last very long because by the end of the 1840s, they had widened again and sometimes worn turned over. “Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 12. Imbecile, Idiot Sleeve - Lexy Holman A notable feature in women’s costume of this period is the variety of sleeve styles. Extremely full from shoulder to wrist, where they gathered into a fitted cuff. The name imbecile derived from the fact that its construction was similar to the “straight jackets” of the period. Gentlemen's magazines showed drawings of women turned sideways to go through doors because the sleeves were so large.
http://zimmer.csufresno.edu/~monicaf/romantic.htm
http://www.victoriana.com/Fashion/fashionhistory1825-1840.html
13. Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve - Angel Cooper
(also known in French as the gigot sleeve) was initially named due to its unusual shape: formed from a voluminous gathering of fabric at the upper arm that tapers to a tight fit from the elbow to the wrist. First seen in fashionable dress in the 1820s, the sleeve became popular between approximately 1825 and 1833 – but by the time Queen Victoria ascended to the throne in 1837, the overblown sleeves had completely disappeared in favour of a more subdued style. The trend returned in the 1890s, sleeves growing in size – much to the ridicule of the media – until 1906 when the mode once again changed. Sleeve with full top gathered or pleated into armhole ad tapered to wrist where it looks like a regular sleeve. Size may vary-in 1895, very full sleeve requiring a yard or two of fabric were popular. Also called a French gigot sleeve, which derives from French, for ‘leg of lamb’.” Gigot is the French word for the back leg of an animal, especially of a lamb or sheep. The gigot sleeve, also called the leg-of-mutton sleeve, was named for its resemblance to a sheep’s hind leg: wide at the top and narrow at its bottom.
https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8295/a-brief-history-of-the-leg-of-mutton-sleeve#:~:text=The%20leg%20of%20mutton%20sleeve%20(also%20known%20in%20French%20as,the%20elbow%20to%20the%20wrist.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/leg-of-mutton-sleeves/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/gigot-sleeve/
14. Mackintosh McKelle Marshall
Mackintosh, waterproof outercoat or raincoat, named after a Scottish chemist, Charles Macintosh (1766–1843), who invented the waterproof material that bears his name. The fabric used for a mackintosh was made waterproof by cementing two thicknesses of it together with rubber dissolved in a coal-tar naphtha solution.
https://www.britannica.com/topic/mackintosh a raincoat made of rubberized cloth.
https://www.dictionary.com/browse/mackintosh
https://www.mackintosh.com/BWContent/Mackintosh/History-1_b833a439-3cf0-4419-ae0a-a04260438c95.jpg
15. Marie Sleeve: Amber Davidson
Textbook: A sleeve that was full at the wrist, but tied in intervals from top to bottom with ribbons or bands. Becan in the early 1800s.
https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/tag/marie-sleeves/
http://zimmer.csufresno.edu/~monicaf/romantic.htm
16. Negro Cloth: Amber Davidson
Texbook: Coarse, white homespun fabric used for slaves in the West Indies and American South. Fabrics slaves received were coarse, and harsh. Either homespun, or purchased from manufacturers in Rhode Island or Eruope who provided the “cheapest, meanest cloth for slave purposes”. Slaves were not supplied with very little clothing. Some slaves were obligated to make their own clothes. Usually given a few yards of woolen cloth or cotton drilling, a needle, a skein of thread, and a few buttons. Generally not dyed, unless wearers were able to dye their fabrics with some kind of natural dye (tree bark, poison ivy, sumac, etc.). House slaves were usually dressed more fashionably, and sometimes in owners hand-me-downs.
https://www.mesdajournal.org/2012/slave-cloth-clothing-slaves-craftsmanship-commerce-industry/
https://blackthen.com/traditional-clothes-worn-by-slaves-on-plantations-in-the-south/
17. Paletot Nora Terry
About knee length and having three capes and slits for the arms. (pg338 Survey of Costume History)
18. Pardessus McKelle Marshall
Pardessus, unglamorously enough, just means ‘overcoat’, from the French ‘passed over’. At first the term was used almost interchangeably with paletot for a short to half-length coat, though there seems to be a quirky distinction in that pardessus was often, though not always, trimmed with fur or velvet. Occasionally an almost full-length coat-cape was called a pardessus.
https://thedreamstress.com/2011/11/more-terminology-what-is-a-pardessus/
The Pardessus differed in that it was often banded with velvet or fur trim. It was really just like a fitted paletot and it is French for passed over. So it was a coat that was passed over other clothes. The princess seaming in the illustration below would give a nice streamlined silhouette. In the main unlike mantelet variations they always had an inserted sleeve head and varied from three quarter length to hip length, but unlike the pelisse they are very much something we would recognise today as a coat, with some being reminiscent of car coats.
https://www.fashion-era.com/coats_history/pelisse_history_1.htm
19. Pelerine Mantlet- Emma Yochim
I was made for sort of decoration and kind of outlined the big sleeves, they were worn by both men and women but more often women. They were often made of lace, twill, velvet, silk and wool as well.
https://www.thejohnbrightcollection.co.uk/costume/mantlet-pelerine/
https://www.mimimatthews.com/2015/11/30/the-1830s-in-fashionable-gowns-a-visual-guide-to-the-decade/
https://www.fashion-glossary.com/cms/glossary/35-glossary-b/7175-bouffant-sleeve.html
22. Undersleeves- Emma Yochim
https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/g32252340/beyond-the-trend-victorian-sleeves-chanel-dior-rodarte/
Textbook “Survey of Historic Costume” by Phillis G Tortora
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