FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Three
Chapter Three:
Chapter 3 terms - Crete & Greece
1. Amber Davidson Buskins
The textbook mentions that both women and men wore sandals. Men wore leather boots called Buskins that lace up in the front that were ankle high or mid-calf length for travel or warfare. Made as a natural extension of sandals, Buskins first appearance was attributed to Ancient Greece. These shoes were a thick-soled boot made from leather or cloth, with laces that went from the open toes to the end of the shoes. They're original use was a fundamental and essential piece of attire for Athenian tragedy actors. These actors used these boots as a staple to distinguish themselves from light and small shoes carried by comedians. Because of the association, the term has come to mean tragedy. The shoe soon spread across Greece, where soldiers, hunters, and athletes “quickly adopted them, and modified them to be more durable and easier to wear”. Decoration on those shoes varied from scenes of nature, animals and gods, but it was recorded that Spartan soldiers preferred simple red designs that effectively hide the blood. (http://www.shoeshistoryfacts.com/high-heeled-shoe-history/history-of-buskin-shoes/) (https://www.britannica.com/art/buskin-boot).
Fibula
The textbook mentions that women and men both wore decorative pins fastening the chiton and brooches called fibula (but more often women). A fibula’s main use was acting as a safety pin to hold up a draping garment. It was a functional and decorative accessory. The early form was simply a bent wire with a sharp point on one end and a hook latch on the other. As Greek culture became more sophisticated, it developed to be more elaborately decorated. They became larger pins in many diverse shapes, and were made of precious metals with intricate designs. They also became important costume accessories. With these more intricate details, they became an accessory that showed status or power. (https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/fibula/) (https://www.britannica.com/art/fibula-jewelry) Textbook also mentioned that I thought was interesting was that during the archaic period, the Doric peplos which was fabric fastened at the shoulder with pins, was abandoned because of an incident toward the beginning of the 6th century B.C. Women used their dress pins to stab to death a messenger to brought bad news of an almost total destruction of an athenian military force in battle. The ionic chiton which did not use these sharp pins was mandated as a result.
2. Elizabeth Gibbons:
Fulling is the procedure of washing the oils out of wool fabrics and shrinking them to make a denser fabric with a tighter weave. After the fabric had been woven, it would be submerged in a mixture of water and urine. The ammonia in the urine was used as a natural de-greaser. In some cases, a soil with the ability to aid in removing the oils, generally termed ‘fuller’s earth’, could be used instead of or in conjunction with the urine. Once submerged, it was pounded down with sticks or walked on to thoroughly wash the fabric. The finished product would have been waterproofed and textured like felt. As technology developed, water mills aided in the process of fulling wool. After the wool had been washed and walked on, it would be put through a fulling mill a few times to further aid in removing the oils from the wool. Once the wool had satisfactorily reduced oil content, it could go through the fulling mill with soaps to help get some of the urine-ammonia scent out of the material.
https://middle-ages-turkey.weebly.com/worst-jobs-in-middle-ages.html
https://www.britannica.com/science/fullers-earth
https://www.tuckershall.org.uk/hall/history/processes/14-fulling-or-tucking
http://www.vicnewey.co.uk/mills/mills_002.htm
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
The Perizoma was a loincloth used in Greece for athletic events and as an undergarment. This was a cloth wrapped first around the hips and then between the legs, designed for modesty. Primarily this garment would be worn by men in Greece, though in our textbook it does mention that women who were dancers or acrobats might wear the perizoma, as well as a separate band to cover their breasts. (62) Although the word perizoma is Greek in origin, this article of clothing was not strictly used in Greece. The term is also used to reference the undergarment for Greeks, Minoans, Etruscans, and Romans.
https://classroom.synonym.com/did-first-ancient-olympians-wear-games-11018.html
https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/brill-s-new-pauly/perizoma-e914620
https://www.historyly.com/greek-history/13-fabulous-ancient-greece-clothes/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/121667627411030073/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
3. Allison Boyes -
A Chlamys (kla 'mis) is a Rectangular cloak of leather or wool pined over the right or left shoulder, worn by men over a chiton (tunic). A chlamys was great for traveling because it could also be used as a blanket when they slept. ( pg. 65) A Chlanis is when a bride gives a Chlamy's to a groom as a wedding gift. A Chlanis symbolizes a bride's mastery of essential housewifely skills. (pg. 69) Here are some photos of the Chlamys and how it compares to the other greek clothing. I also included a photo of an ancient greek wedding and some brides. page 68 also has a cool photo of a pot that depicts a bride getting ready for a wedding. White wedding dresses were also a symbol of purity, and they would be crowned with laurel wreath.
4. Maggie Morton- Greaves
Ancient Greeks used greaves as a piece of armor to protect their legs of the ancient warriors. They were either made of shaped leather or bronze with an inner padding of felt. The padding was a crucial part of the greaves because without it, any damage done to armor would transfer directly from the metal plating to the shin. The primary purpose was to protect the tibia from attack. The tibia is a bone that is very close to the skin surface, so it’s extremely vulnerable to any sort of attack. The greaves were shaped to fit the anatomy of the warrior’s leg and went all the way up to the knee. Overtime, greaves became better transformed and adapted to the morphology of the soldier's lower leg, as to provide the maximum protection. Many skeletons have been found buried with their greaves in their tombs, which indicated their status in ancient society. Along with the greaves, Greeks would wear wide metal belts and shields as a source of protection as well.
https://joyofmuseums.com/museums/europe/greece-museums/thessaloniki-museums/archaeological-museum-of-thessaloniki/ancient-greek-greaves/
https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/greave
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
Hellenistic Chiton
The Hellenistic chiton was worn by Greek women 300 to 100 B.C. They were very similar to Doric chitons, but narrower. They were long and belted just below the breasts. To mold the body lines, they were made of very lightweight fabric like lightweight wool, linen, or silk.
https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/G_1920-0612-1
https://www.ancient.eu/article/20/ancient-greek-clothing/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
5. Wendy Triana:
Chitoniskos is a form of a tunic that fastens at the shoulders and the length of this tunic is generally shorter between hip and thigh. This was mainly worn by men and is made out of wool. This was worn generally during the Archaic period. This piece of garment wasn’t necessarily sewn but rather wrapped around the body a certain way and then secured with a few pins on the shoulders.
https://quizlet.com/285208281/history-of-fashion-test-1-flash-cards/#:~:text=a%20long%20woolen%20tunic%20worn,It%20was%20usually%20patterned%20wool.%20(
https://www.encyclopedia.com/humanities/culture-magazines/garments-classical-greece
Anakalypteria is when the bride’s veil is uncovered, she turns away from her father to turn to her husband. This is potentially the moment for the bride to accept her groom to be her husband.
https://books.google.com/books?id=LcdOwOzTgToC&pg=PA25&lpg=PA25&dq=Anakalypteria&source=bl&ots=JtYKA6MOS9&sig=ACfU3U2e2HmJxUxTDNt0o7TbsApDtLskQg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiYrOzv24DsAhWrlXIEHUuTDGs4ChDoATACegQICBAB#v=onepage&q=Anakalypteria&f=false
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/104356916350762768/?nic_v2=1a18n0WWn
6. McKelle Marshall
Pilos A narrow-brimmed or brimless hat with a pointed crown that was worn by both men and women. "The two most common hats worn in Greece from 1200 to 146 B.C.E. were the pilos (PEE-loss) and the petasos (PEH-ta-sus). Felt... was the most common material used to make the hats, but other materials were also used, including leather and straw. Evidence of many different felt hats formed into a cone shape with a small rolled brim has been discovered in many regions of Greece. These hats were worn by working men. In each region, the hats were usually named after the geographic area in which they were worn. Scholars, however, have not been able to distinguish differences among these many different regional hats and have come to call all these felt hats with little brims pilos." Read more:
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Greece/Pilos-and-Petasos.html#ixzz6Yukmz5aQ ...[A]
Greek sailor’s hat called the pilos. In Roman times the head was generally left uncovered, but commoners and freed slaves sometimes wore the felt pileus. https://www.britannica.com/topic/pilos https://www.alexanderancientart.com/1086.php Exomis The Complete Costume Dictionary defines the exomis as: “a masculine garment made from a short rectangle of fabric that is wrapped around the torso, pinned at one shoulder and girded at the waist” https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/exomis/ originally a tunic fastened over the left shoulder only, leaving the right shoulder and part of the breast free. It was especially characteristic of workmen and slaves. http://www.hellenicaworld.com/Greece/WS/en/Exomis.html
7. Angel Cooper
Doric Peplos (TEXTBOOK) This is a type of tunic, known as a Chiton by the Greek. This specific type of chiton is worn by women and goes down to the ankles. It fits close to the body and is fastened with a large straight pin at the shoulder. According to the textbook, in the 6th Century (BC) Athenian women would use the dress pin to stab and kill any messenger who brought forth bad news in regards to the Athenian military force in battle. The Doric Peplos was typically made from patterned wool. It was worn from the archaic period to 550BC. (https://www.colorado.edu/classics/2018/06/18/womens-dress-archaic-greece-peplos-chiton-and-himation (Links to an external site.) "The sleeveless peplos was made of a rectangular piece of cloth, usually of a heavier, woolen fabric, which was folded first in half around the torso and beneath the arms. The top was folded down to form an overfall or "apotygma." With the body centered between the two sides of the peplos, the garment was then pinned over both shoulders." (https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/peplos/ (Links to an external site.) "The Doric Peplos is the most common woman’s garment seen in classical Greek art. Like the men’s garments of this period, it was made of one continuous piece of fabric woven to the desired size. The length was at least twice the women’s elbow-to-elbow measurement; the width was her neck-to-floor measurement plus enough extra to fold over at the top edge to form a flap."
8. Jada Cordon - Diplax & Chlamydon
The diplax is a small piece of fabric shaped like a rectangle. I t was similar to the himation. The women would wear these over the Ionic chiton. The Chlamydon is very similar to the diplax except it has pleated fabric. These were made out of wool or linen and use mostly for warmth but also protection and modesty. A lot of their clothing back then was the same for males and females, but the diplax and chlamydon were just worn by the women. The name "diplax" comes from the Greek word for "double", because it was an added layer over the tunic or chiton. Sometimes they would dye them in bright colors or add decorations like geometric shapes. The drape of the garment was also important to them so some would add little metal weights to the corners.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Greece/Chlaina-and-Diplax.html
https://lowelldesigns.com/ancient-greece/
9. Emma Yoachim - Colobium
The colobium is a sleeveless tunic that is plain and symbolizes leaving behind vanity, and turning towards God. It's a tunic that was often worn by medieval kings and princes. The brocade around the armholes and neck is often golden color. In modern times they are used for coronations.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/536069161890445190/
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/colobium
10. Lexy Holman: Swaddling clothes & Stephane
Infants were wrapped in swaddling clothes (650-300 BC) which were bands of fabric wrapped around the body. Paired with close fitting, peaked caps. Swaddling babies was a common practice throughout Europe until the 19th century. It was thought to prevent deformity of children’s limbs. Right after birth, the child was wrapped in cloths from head to toe. These were called swaddling bands. The child remained swaddled until about age 2. It replaced the notion of ‘cribs.’ Swaddling for these long periods of time was definitely detrimental to a child’s health. It is argued that swaddling clothes explain why half of the children born in ancient Greece, died in their childhood and their bones could not fully develop.
https://www.thegreatcoursesdaily.com/children-in-greece-hurdles-in-their-growth-in-ancient-times/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/61689/61689-h/61689-h.htm
Stephane
Placed over the veil for brides around (650-300BC). Essentially a bridal crown. The stephane has been depicted on statues and coins, mortal and divine women and over the course of more than a thousand years. The stephane was equal to the male honorary symbols like the royal diadema, signifying the elevated, semi-divine, status of its wearer. Many goddesses were depicted in stephane’s relaying the importance of the crown to the wearer. The sculpture below is Aphrodite, goddess of love, wearing a stephane crown.
https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/bitstream/handle/1887/31709/Thesis%20Stephane%20Anique%20final%20version%20including%20database.pdf?sequence=1
https://artsandculture.google.com/usergallery/sherena-niccum-ancient-greek-arts-of-aphrodite/tQISaZE1h1wcIQ
"Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
11. Rebecca Odd Cuirass (kwi-ras')
This is a protective device commonly used for soldiers. This armor would cover the wearer from neck to waist. Infantry would wear a metal or leather cuirass with a row of leather tabs that hang down. These tabs would protect the lower half of the body. A cuirass is virtually a brestplate, but rather than being only the front half of the armor, it is both front and back pieces that hinge at the shoulder seam.
12. Nora Terry
The bride wore a belt tied with a double knot known as a bridal or Hercules knot. The loosening of this knot- took place on the wedding n ight, was both a symbol of and a necessary preface to the sexual union of the bride and groom. Other names Love knot Marriage knot are a symbol that stands for undying love and commitment. One of the strongest knots, made with 2 entwining ropes representing the legendary fertility of Hercules, believed to be the origin of "tying the knot"
Comments
Post a Comment