FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Ten
Chapter Ten
Chapter Ten: 18th Century
1. Anglomania - Angel Cooper Anglomania was a term used to describe the adoption of English fashions by the upper sections of European society. This fascination and enthusiasm for all things English was particularly strong in France. Originating in the 1750s, it reached a peak in the years preceding the French Revolution. ‘Our opinions, our fashions, even our games, were adopted in France; a ray of national glory illuminated each individual and every Englishman was supposed to be born a patriot and a philosopher’ wrote Edward Gibbon, English historian and Member of Parliament (1763). Clothing, pastimes and decorative designs regarded as ‘characteristically English’ all became increasingly fashionable across the Channel. The Anglomania trend saw a wide variety of ‘English fashions’ come in vogue en France, including: English butlers; English breeds of dog; English-style carriages; and the popular English entertainment of horse racing." French women adopted the robe à l’Anglaise, which consisted of an open robe with a bodice cut in one piece. The skirt parted in front to reveal a matching petticoat. Its fitted bodice did not have the centre back pleats that characterised the Robe à la Française, but was cut and seamed. The fashion for horse racing was popularised by the Duc d’Orléans and the Comte d’Artois who imported horses and jockeys from England. Public races were organised at Vincennes. The Duc d’Orléans made frequents trips to England, he was a member of various English clubs and from 1782 he rented a permanent residence in London.
2. Calash, Caleche - Angel Cooper
"The calash style was designed in the late 18th century to allow women to wear a fashionable headdress without damaging their coiffure. Hairstyles during the late 18th century were growing increasingly large and elaborate, but bonnets were still required for protection and decency. The name "calash" is derived from "calèche," the hood of a "French carriage," because the material was ruched along a collapsible cane support structure, much like the hood of a carriage. Many calashes were treated to be water-proof. This later 1820s example shows how the style endured into the 19th century, probably because of its practicality and convenience for weather and travel, rather than its fashionability."
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156795
https://www.britannica.com/technology/calash-carriage
The calash bonnet (known in France as the thérèse or caleche) was a popular and intriguing millinery item in the mid-1700s and was worn through the early 1800s. It came about because it protected the towering hairstyles from inclement weather and allowed for decency. Because it tied under the chin, it was considered more of bonnet than a hat. On the tall calash versions, ribbons were attached to the brim to allow wearers to draw it up as required. Thus, it operated similar to the collapsible top found on the carriage by the same name. One description of how the calash bonnet operated was provided by Englishman Thomas Wright: “[The] calash was formed like the hood of a carriage, and was strengthened with whalebone hoops [or cane hoops] … so that by means of a string in front, connected with the hoops, it could be either be drawn forwards over the face, or it might be thrown backwards over the hair.” https://www.geriwalton.com/the-calash-bonnet/
3. Chapeau Bras: Lexy Holman
A three cornered, large flat hat that was carried under the arm rather than being actually worn. It was designed to be folded flat and translates literally to “hat arm” in French. Often made of black felt, grosgrain ribbon, ostrich feathers, and gold cockade, which is a ribbon rose or knot. Such hats were a popular style worn on dress occasions by gentlemen in the 18th century.
https://www.tudortalkandcatwalk.com/new-hats-and-hairstyles/
http://nationalclothing.org/europe/85-france/275-hairdos-and-hairstyles-of-marie-antoinette-the-18th-century-absurd-hairstyles.html
5. Fashion Babies: Amber Davidson
Textbook: Fashion dolls made in Paris. American colonies in the 18th century living in towns and nearby areas imported British goods and followed european fashions, many of which originated in Paris. Some clothes were imported and others were made in colonies by copying styles shown on the fashion dolls that were made in Paris. Dolls were more usually referred to as “babies”, or sometimes “jointed babies” in reference to their moving parts. There were many different varieties of doll which varied in size and application. A life-sized replica of the female form ( like mannequins) which could be used as clothing boutique models or aristocratic ladies would dress in it up in her own fashions and send to others around the country in order to start a trend. Unrealistic body shapes. Puppets and waxworks also became popular in the 18th century.
http://eighteenthcenturylit.pbworks.com/w/page/75858416/Dolls
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/185984659591699129/
6. Frock Coat: Amber Davidson
Textbook: Coats that were cut looser and shorter than dress coats with flat turned down collars. After 1730 frock coats were considered suitable for country/casual wear, and after 1770, they were acceptable for more formal wear as well. They were not embroidered like other coats of the time, and were made out of serge, plush, or sturdy woven cloth. The origin of the term frock coat is not entirely clear, but we can assume it referred to a more loose fitted washable garments since the word frock has been applied to several other garments that are also loose fitted washable garments (women's undergarment, childrens dress). The textbook says it could be an idea passed down and traveled from Spanish Netherlands being first adopted by farmers and laborers.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/frock-coat/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock
7. Paniers: Wendy Triana
It is translated as hoop petticoat. Panier translates to basket in french. They can also come in a cone shape but during the early 18th century is where we see the flat oval shape that we know. Depending on your status, your panier can be very wide for the wealthy or not so big for the not so wealthy people.
http://demodecouture.com/lets-start-at-the-very-beginning-paniers/
8. Macaroni: Wendy Triana
Men who adapted Italian and French styles during the later half of the 18th century in England. Also known as “Beaux” or “Coxcomb”. People called men this name because it is a highly effeminate style during a time when darker colors and woolen cloth were in vogue. “The Italians are extremely fond of a dish they call Macaroni, composed of a kind of paste; and, as they consider this as the summum bonum of all good eating, so they figuratively call everything they think elegant and uncommon Macaroni. Our young travellers, who generally catch the follies of the countries they visit, judged that the tide of Macaroni was very applicable to a clever fellow; and accordingly they instituted a club under this denomination, the members of which were supposed to be the standards of taste in polite learning, the fine arts and the genteel sciences; and fashion, amongst the other constituent parts of taste, became an object of their attention. But they soon proved, they had very little claim to any distinction, except in their external appearance.” (Ribiero, 2019).
https://www.historytoday.com/archive/lord-derby-oaks
https://www.thevintagenews.com/2017/05/25/macaroni-the-highly-excessive-fashion-trend-of-the-18th-century/
9. Mantua-style gown-McKelle Marshall
“woman’s overdress or gown worn over an underskirt. Made with a loosely fitted unboned bodice joined to overskirt with long train. The overskirt was split in front to expose petticoat. Worn on social or formal occasions from mid-17th to mid-18th century.” https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/mantua/
"A Mantua is a kind of loose Coat without any stays in it, the body part and sleeves are of as many fashions as I have mentioned in the Gown Body; but the skirt is sometime no longer than the Knees, others have them down to the Heels. The short skirt is open before, and behind to the middle: this is called a Semmer, or Semare: have a loose Body, and four side laps or skirts; which extend to the knee, the sleeves short not to the Elbow turned up and faced. " https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-types-styles/mantua
10. Pet-en-lair - Emma Yochim
A Pet-en-lair is basically a short version of the sack dress. Originally the jacket started at the knee and gradually got shorter and shorter. “The pet en l’air was part of a series of garment types that were considered “undress” (deshabille in french). This means they were informal articles of clothing worn inside the home, but presentable enough to wear while entertaining. One would not go out into public in such a garment. Pet en l’airs and other jackets could be worn with either a matching petticoat, or a quilted one in a solid, contrasting/coordinating colour.”
https://brocadegoddess.wordpress.com/pet-en-lair/
11. Polonaise - Emma Yochim
A Polonaise is a dress with a tight bodice and a big draped skirt, it had three folds in the back that purposely showed the petticoat. They often had many bows and trims and ropes attached for decoration. It was first depicted by English artists in the early 1700’s. It was designed after women's habit to lift their skirts while walking. "The term polonaise was applied to a variety of garments throughout the 19th century, often because their styling was thought to be Polish in inspiration.”
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polonaise_(clothing)allison
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/polonaise
12. Redingote Dress - Allison Boyes
A redingote dress resembled buttoned great coats or english riding coats with wide lapels or revers at the neck. The image on the left is a french redingote from the 1820’s. “The redingote (or redingote, redingot)[8] is a type of coat that has had several forms over time. The name is derived from a French alteration of the English "riding coat", an example of reborrowing. The first form of the redingote was in the 18th century, when it was used for travel on horseback.”
13. Robe a la Francaise & Robe a’ Anglaise - Allison Boyes
The Robe a la Francaise (frahn-says’) had a full pleated back and a fitted front. Most of these gowns had open bodices and skirts that allowed the display of decorative stomachers and petticoats.” The Francaise gown was a dress that was worn over a bodice decorated with a stomacher (a decorative V-or U-shaped garment) and outfitted with hoops or panniers that supported its skirt.” This gown was mostly worn by wealthy women and was the most popular upper class fashion during this time. This dress gave the opportunity to women to flash their wealth with costly silks, brocades, and floral patterned fine cloth.
Sources:
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80092942?rpp=20&pg=24&ao=on&ft=%2A&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Dresses&pos=468
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/robe-a-langlaise/ https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/robe-a-la-francaise/
14. Round Gown - Rebecca Odd
The round gown was a fitted-back gown with the the skirt and petticoat sewn as one - it is not an open robe. Round gowns exist throughout the century but become extremely common from the 1770s through the 1790s.
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80580
https://blog.americanduchess.com/2013/03/the-many-types-of-late-18th-century.html
Textbook
15. Sacque - rebecca Odd
The sack, or sacque, gown evolved from a very informal dress of the late seventeenth century into a formal dress by the mid-eighteenth century. The sack gown was first a loose, tent-like robe worn in the home or by pregnant women. The volume of the gown came from gathers near the shoulders and along the back. The front of the gown skirt was worn either open in the front to reveal a petticoat or stitched closed from the waist down to the hemline.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-18th-Century/Sack-Gown.html
https://georgianera.wordpress.com/tag/sacque-gown/
textbook
16. Shepherdess Hat- Maggie Morton
The shepherdess hat was a hat worn by women typically outdoors. These hats wear large flat straw hats with low crowns and wide brims. They tied under or over the brim and were sometimes decorated with ribbon or flowers. These hats first appeared in the 1730’s and were popular in various forms throughout the 18th century. Shepherdess hats were also called bergère hats. Bergère literally means shepherdess, the masculine of shepherd is a berger. It is believed that the bergère hat is named after Boucher’s famous portrait of Madame Bergeret. In that portrait she is holding a bergère hat. They were also sometimes called milkmaid hats because the hats protected the skin from the sun and the eyes from any glare.
https://thedreamstress.com/2013/03/terminology-what-is-a-bergere/
Grantland, Brenda and Robak, Mary (2012). Hatatorium: An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors. p. 67
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
17. Skeleton Suit- Maggie Morton
The skeleton suit was worn by boys older than 7-8 after the 1780s. The suits consisted of long straight trousers, a white shirt with a wide collar that finished in a ruffled edge, and, over the shirt was a jacket that was a more simplified and shorter version of an adult jacket. It was cut to the waist and double breasted. These suits represented easy-fitting clothing and were meant to be comfortable. However, they did have three layers of clothing at the waist. It was called a “skeleton suit” because they fit close to the body. Usually the smaller the boy, the more elaborate the collar was. Colors were generally light, with the most popular being blue or green. Sometimes the suits were made of scarlet or mustard as well. For more formal occasions, a colorful sash might’ve been added, and the trousers might’ve been made of silk or velvet and trimmed with lace.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/skeleton-suit/
https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/history-childrens-clothing
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
18. Spatterdashers, Spats- McKelle Marshall
Spats are linen or canvas shoe coverings that fasten under the bottom of the shoe and button up the side. They were first designed to protect shoes and ankles from mud and water while walking. However, between 1910 and the mid-1930s, spats eventually became an elegant men's fashion accessory, often associated with gangsters and dandies, a term to describe well-dressed men of the time. Spats originated in the seventeenth century as leather or cloth coverings called gaiters. Gaiters were leggings that covered the shoe and leg up to the knee. They were worn by both women, whose dresses did little to protect shoes and stockings from mud and water splashes, and men, who at that time wore breeches, a type of pants, that ended just below the knee. By the 1700s several European nations had made gaiters a part of their military uniform. Gaiters were also called spatterdash because they protected their wearer from spatters and dashes of muddy water in the street.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1919-1929/Spats.html#ixzz6bNkDo2XJ
Spats, also known as spatterdashes or spatter guards, are a classic outdoor footwear accessory which covered the ankle and instep. Their intended purpose was to protect shoes and socks from mud or rain, but also served as a very stylish feature of dress during the period. Gaiters are a very similar garment to spats, however they are intended to be worn over the lower trouser leg as well as the shoe. Gaiters are more rugged, with origins in vintage military uniform styles.
https://www.historicalemporium.com/store/mens-shoes-boots.php?type=Spats+and+Gaiters
http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/gaiters-spatterdashes.html http://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2015/03/18th-century-civilian-mens-leg.html
19. Club Wig & Teton de Mouton - Jada Cordon
The club wig, also known as catogans, were a popular hairstyle for men after the mid 18th century. They were a type of queues meaning that they had a pigtail in the back. The club wig had two queues placed on top of each other and tied in the middle. They were either made of human hair, goat hair, or horsehair. They came in different colors but the lighter powdered ones were desired for formal events.
"Survey of Historic Costume" by Tortora & Eubank 2011
http://www.theweebsite.com/18cgarb/1750.html
https://thebeautifultimes.wordpress.com/2011/09/05/1700%C2%B4s-wigs/
20. Tete de Mouton (hairstyle) - Jada Cordon
This hairstyle started to show up around 1750 when everyone was starting to comb back their hair and style it high on their head. Tete de Mouton translates to "sheeps head" in English. Looking at pictures of the hairstyle, it makes sense. This hairstyle was achieved by making very tight and close curls all around the face. They would often add flowers or other type of embellishments. If hair was too thin, they would add fake hair (sometimes animal hair). They would also powder their hair to make it look lighter in color.
"Survey of Historic Costume" by Tortora & Eubank 2011
http://demodecouture.com/hairstyles-cosmetics-18th-century/
http://thisisversaillesmadame.blogspot.com/2014/11/tete-de-mouton.html
21. Chemise a la Reine - Elizabeth Gibbons
The Chemise a la Reine was a gown made from white muslin that was popularized by Marie Antoinette in the late 18th century. Gathers of cotton would drape at the base of the dress, and a colored sash was sometimes tied around the waist for decoration.
http://vivelaqueen.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-manchester-chemise-la-reine.html
https://fabricnfiction.com/2019/08/05/chemise-a-la-reine/
"Survey of Historic Costume" by Tortora & Eubank 2011
22. False rumps - Elizabeth Gibbons
False rumps were an adaptation of bum rolls. Often made of cork or other cushioning material, false rumps were a padding and support of the fullness of women’s gowns.
https://georgianera.wordpress.com/2018/03/01/false-rumps/
https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2018/04/28/false-rump-1780s/
"Survey of Historic Costume" by Tortora & Eubank 2011
23. Gaiters Nora Terry
When sturdy shoes were worn outdoors, , spatterdashers(also called spats or gaiters) separate protective coverings that extended from the top of the shoe to some point below the knee, were worn to protect the legs. (pg 277 Survey of Historic /Costume)
(picture from Pinterest) I thought it was interesting - I hadn’t considered leather gaiters, but it made sense when they mentioned them being worn for riding, and being out in the woods.
24. Great Coat Nora Terry
"Shinel" redirects here. For the short story by Nikolai Gogol, see The Overcoat.
Comments
Post a Comment