FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Six
Chapter Six
Chapter Six: Late Middle Ages
1. Bowl Crop & Page Boy haircut : Lexy Holman
Hairstyle that looks like an inverted bowl around the top of the head. Below the cut hair the neck and sideburns were shaved. Basically like the modern day bowl cut. Literally done with a bowl. The Crusades, a long campaign of religious wars that lasted from 1090 through 1300, had brought both military and religious styles into popular culture, and the modest bowl haircut had elements of the shorter hairstyles of both soldiers and religious leaders. However, men of the Middle Ages did manage to add their own personal style to bowl-cropped hair by wearing fashionable hats and head coverings, which were quite complex and ornate during that era. Though the bowl cut has an ancient history, it has reappeared throughout the centuries, often among poor people in rural areas who could not afford barbers.
Read more: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Bowl-Haircut.html#ixzz6a1uLgvBv
https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/bowl-haircut
2. Coat of Plates : Lexy Holman
A coat of plates is a form of segmented torso armor consisting of overlapping metal plates riveted inside a cloth or leather garment. (replaced the chain armor)The coat of plates is considered part of the era of transitional armour and was normally worn as part of a knights harness. Very close fitting and opened in front and fastened with buckles.
https://armstreet.com/news/the-cost-of-plate-armor-in-modern-money
http://www.historyofarmor.com/armor-history/history-of-plate-armor/
3. Crackowe: Rebecca Odd
Crackowes and poulaines are both names for the decorated leather shoes with very long pointed toes. They were very popular among fashionable young men in the late 14th and 15th centuries. These shoes were, at their most extreme, extended 24 inches beyond the wearer’s foot and had to be supported by thin chains that were connected from the toe to the knee. This style became popular after crusaders brought over oriental shoes from Europe. After the Black Plague, survivors wanted to feel hope and joy, so they sought fashions that would cheer them up. The delicate, long, pointed crackowes were the perfect fashion statement to do so.
https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/getting-to-the-point-of-medieval-shoes
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Crackowes-and-Poulaines.html#:~:text=Crackowes%20and%20poulaines%20are%20two,fourteenth%20and%20early%20fifteenth%20century.&text=As%20fashionable%20dressers%20began%20to,shoes%20grew%20longer%20and%20longer.
4. Dagging: Maggie Morton
A form of decoration in which edges of the garment were cut into pointed or squared scallops. It was created by cutting or slashing the fabric into different shapes. Some were simple, and some were more elaborate. This treatment was found everywhere on clothing in England and Western Europe. The women would decorate the edges of skirts and hanging sleeve flaps with dagging. Changes in the way textiles were made are believed to have played a role in the emergence of dagging. Woven textiles, especially wool, were produced with dense edges that made it possible to cut shapes into the edges without the cloth raveling.
https://www.pinterest.com/trig260/dagged-dress-explosion/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/dagging/#:~:text=An%20extremely%20popular%20decorative%20edging,the%20Middle%20Ages%20and%20Renaissance.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
5. Doublet: Maggie Morton
Also known as the pourpoint or gipon. It was an outer garment for the upper body worn over a shirt by men in the late middle ages. It was worn over the undershirt and cut to fit the body closely. It closed down the front with laces or closely placed buttons. The neckline was round. Sleeves were fitted around the arm and fastened with buttons at the wrist. It originated as military dress and armor. It was often used in conjunction with the plate armor. The doublet provided more protection and helped the wearer be more comfortable in wearing the hefty plate armor. Different types of armor doublets were used throughout the different parts of medieval Europe. They were usually made of wool or linen. The doublet evolved over time, primary because it was directly affected by the kind of plate armor the wearer used. About 1340 is when men began wearing a sleeved version of the doublet for civilian dress, together paired with long hose.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/doublet/#
https://www.medievalchronicles.com/medieval-armour/doublet/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
6. Fret: Elizabeth Gibbons
A fret was a medieval hairnet worn by women. Consisting of interlaced wire, the purpose of these headdresses was to keep a lady’s hair pulled up. This was often combined with other headdresses such as the fillet. Interesting side note: In old English there’s a term “fretan” which changed to “freten” in middle English. Freten means “to devour.” I don’t know how closely linked the term is to the aforementioned fret; however, considering the use of the fret was to enclose a woman’s hair, it could be argued that this headwear was “devouring” the woman’s hair so it couldn’t escape down her back. .
https://ahdictionary.com/word/search.html?q=fret
http://www.finedictionary.com/fret.html
https://rosaliegilbert.com/headdresses.html
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
7 & 8. Gambeson & Haubergeon: Allison Boyes
The Gambeson (gam‘bee-sun) was a padded undercoat that would go underneath the armor of a knight, and then the Haubergeon (ho‘bear-zhun) was a shorter version of the Hauberk which went over the gambeson. [1] The image on the right came from the Centraal Museaum in Urecht, and is from 1660-1670. “The gambeson was used both as a complete armor unto itself and underneath mail and plate in order to cushion the body and prevent chafing. It was very insulating and thus uncomfortable, but its protection was vital for the soldier.” There were two types of Gambeson, one designed to be worn under the metal armor and one worn without metal armor. The one worn without metal armor would be made of thicker material such as leather or canvas and could have up to 30 layers of cotton, linen or wool and were “known to stop heavy arrows” The latter tend to be thicker and higher in the collar, and faced with other materials, such as leather, or heavy canvas.
Sources:
[1] History of Costume
[2] https://worddisk.com/wiki/Gambeson/#cite_note-Embleton,_Gerry_p.47-8
https://art.thewalters.org/detail/24747
[3] Embleton, Gerry; Howe, John (1994). Söldnerleben im Mittelalter. Motorbuchverlag. p. 47.
9. Gown: Nora Terry
the Gown fit smoothly through the body, with tight fitting long sleeves. (pg 159 Survey Historic costume)(historyofeurpeanfashion.wordpress.com) The Church did not approve of this style (used to more loose clothing on women) Women wore houppelandes and fitted gowns. One style appears so often in art that it has become almost a stereotype for modern illustrators who want to show medieval princesses. This gown had fitted sleeves, a deep V-neck with a modesty piece filling in the V, a slightly high waistline with a wide belt, and a long, trained skirt
10. Houce, Housse: Angel Cooper
The house is described as a wide-skirted overcoat with winged cape sleeves and two, flat, tongue-shaped lapels at the neck. From descriptions this appears to be a French variation of the garnache, which also had these tongue-shaped tabs. A wide skirted overcoat with winged cape sleeves and two flat, tongue-shaped lapels at the neck. Corset or round cape which buttoned on the right shoulder and left the right arm free or closed at the center with a chain or ribbon. Cape lengths vary. Some were shoulder length and finished at the edge with dagging.
http://content.inflibnet.ac.in/data-server/eacharya-documents/56b0853a8ae36ca7bfe81449_INFIEP_79/36/ET/79-36-ET-V1-S1__unit_3.pdf
Textbook: Survey of Historic Costume
11. Houppelande & Houppelande a Mi Jambe: Angel Cooper
The Houppelande is a specific kind of medieval over-gown which was widely worn in the late 14th century and 15th century. It was never worn without an undergown, but often showed off the gown underneath which would have been costly and expensive. It had a high collar or neck opening, big and loose sleeves, and a voluminous amount of fabric in the lower part of the gown. There were many types of sleeves but most used a large amount of fabric compared to previous gowns. It is gathered high under the bust and forms pleats, and is belted under the bust at the back with a fabric belt. The belt might have had expensive decorative metal buckles and ends. They are almost always depicted with a fur lining and typically worn with a heart shaped headdress. According to the textbook, the houppelande is first mentioned in French royal inventories in 1359. It seems to have come to England slightly later. Apparently, it originated as a man’s house coat and was constructed from four long pieces that were sewn together at the sides, center front, and center back. These garments were put on over the head. Typically the style was suited to heavy fabrics such as velvet, satin, damasks, bocades, and wool. The Houppelande a Mi Jambe would be a calf-length version of the gown. Most versions had a high, standing collar that encircled the neck.
https://rosaliegilbert.com/houppelandes.html
Textbook: Survey of Historic Costume
12. Huke: Rebecca Odd
A Huke is a medieval hooded cloak that was worn originally by women, but later by both men and women. This garment is seamed across the shoulders and hangs open on both sides.
https://lowelldesigns.com/the-gothic-period-medieval/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/huke#:~:text=1%20%3A%20a%20medieval%20hooded%20cloak,fitting%20gown%20for%20either%20sex
13. Livery: Nora Terry
-In the 14&15 century Livery ment special uniforms for servants, but also by by officials of the court and ladies-in-waiting to queens and duchesses. A lady-in-wating was not a servant but a well born woman who lived and took part in the life of the court aspart of the queen’s retinue. The garments were distributed were decorated with special devices or symbols associated with the noble family . (pg148Survey of Historic Costume)
14. Mi-Parti: Elizabeth Gibbons
Mi-Parti, also called parti-colored, was a description of clothing with multiple colors sewn into it. The textbook talks about how the practice allowed families to include the patterns and symbols of their nobility in their garments (and those of their household). Online it mentions men’s hose and servant’s wardrobe commonly including this style.
https://referenceworks.brillonline.com/entries/encyclopedia-of-medieval-dress-and-textiles/mi-parti-SIM_001017
http://www.larsdatter.com/particolor.htm https://www.pinterest.com/pin/444237950727401835/
https://www.deviantart.com/lady--eowyn/art/Mi-Parti-dress-1-108947695
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
15. Mourning Costume: McKelle Marshall
During the Middle Ages, royalty and the aristocracy wore mourning dress during periods of bereavement. Mourning dress was regulated by sumptuary law and strict protocol was observed in the kind of clothing worn at funerals and following the death of people in high social position. During the Middle Ages, funeral processions followed guidelines based on social hierarchy. While all wore black, the procession that followed the hearse included; first the bereaved family, then royalty and the aristocracy, followed by clergy, military, then the merchant class. Black coded clothing made it clear to observers who was who in a funeral procession. High ranking mourners wore long trains and hoods made of expensive, dull shaded black wool with black or white crepe or linen trim.
https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/FashionHistoryMourningDressBlackClothingWornDuringBereavement
During the Middle Ages and Renaissance, black mourning attire was worn by aristocrats and royals for both personal loss as well as general loss, such as after the St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre. Women and widows wore distinctive black caps and veils, and all mourning dress was heavily regulated and monitored to fit a strict dress code. In some countries in Europe, widows were expected to wear mourning attire for the remainder of their lives.
https://frazerconsultants.com/2016/06/mourning-in-black-a-history/
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/222013456607491909/
16. Plastron: McKelle Marshall :
a metal breastplate formerly worn under the hauberk b: a quilted pad worn in fencing to protect the chest, waist, and the side on which the weapon is held a trimming like a bib for a woman's dress
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/plastron
A plastron, a stiffened and highly decorated piece of fabric, could be added to the front and back of the garment for some pizazz. The sideless surcoat quickly moved to being a ceremonial garment, leaving the cotehardie as the main fashion choice for women.
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2011/03/head-to-toe-14th-century-woman.html
17. Poulaine: Amber Davidson
London: Museum of London (recovered from archaeological excavations at Baynard’s Castle on the north bank of the River Thames, London)
Texbook: An elongated pointed toe shoe. Also known as crackowe. The style of the pointed toe shoe had appeared earlier in history, as early as the 10th century and maybe even earlier according to the textbook. It was a badge of rank, nobles and the rich wore extreme forms, and was the characteristic of a man who didn’t perform physical labor. They were introduced in England by Polish nobles who came to visit British king Richard II and his wife (1367–1400).
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Crackowes-and-Poulaines.html#ixzz6a38CT8jM
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/poulaine/ http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Crackowes-and-Poulaines.html
18. Pourpoint: Amber Davidson
Textbook: A type of men’s jacket. Worn in the 14th and 15th centuries. Also known as doublet, or gipon. Knights wore heavy metal armor in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries to stay protected while fighting. Pourpoint was worn as undergarment beneath the metal armor to provide padding for their body. It was heavily quilted and padded in key places where sharp parts of the armor contacted the skin. It was a close fitted, tailored close to the torso, long sleeve shirt that buttoned down the front. It also had carefully tailored arm sockets to allow complete range of movement for the arms in battle. Even though the pourpoint was designed to make the wearer comfortable beneath his armor, it was also a fashion statement when armor was removed. An unarmed knight in a pourpoint became one of the first images of strength and masculinity to influence fashion.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Pourpoint.html#ixzz6a30kgwqS
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Pourpoint.html https://www.dictionary.com/browse/pourpoint
19. Smock: Wendy Triana
https://www.britannica.com/topic/smock
http://costumehistorian.blogspot.com/2014/09/smock-shift-chemise.html
https://rosaliegilbert.com/chemises.html
It was the undermost garment during the 14th and 15th century for women. It was also called a chemise. It was worn as an undergarment for women until the late 17th when they started changing the same to shift dress (Poppy, 2016). During the middle ages the smock eventually had a yoke and the material was made of coarse linen (Britannica). It was primarily worn by peasant women to protect themselves from dust or protect themselves from paint. It was also a way to keep the outer clothing fresh longer as well since the smock is to absorb the odor and sweat.
20. Hennin: Wendy Triana
https://rosaliegilbert.com/hatsandhennins.html
https://sibellasays.wordpress.com/2018/10/02/double-horned-divided-hennin/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/particolored/
http://www.larsdatter.com/particolor.htm
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora and Eubank
22. Plastron: Jada Cordon
The plastron was a type of surcote that the women in the 14th century would wear over a gown. The plastron was a stiffened panel with a rounded lower edge. It was wrapped around the body covering the front and the back but leaving the sides exposed. This garment was for special occasions and ceremonies, not the everyday wear.
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2011/03/head-to-toe-14th-century-woman.html
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/398216792023511208/?nic_v2=1a3JV32QK
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank
Tapestry with Flowers and Animals, Belgian, about 1530–1545, artist unknown, wool and silk. Minneapolis Institute of Art, Gift of Mrs. C. J. Martin in memory of Charles Jairus Martin, 34.4
Sources:
https://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/bestiary/
https://www.latimes.com/entertainment-arts/story/2019-07-22/review-unicorns-are-just-one-of-the-wild-rides-in-the-gettys-marvelous-book-of-beasts
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