FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Four
Chapter Four:
Chapter 4 Etruria & Rome
1. Staci Moore- Vitta
In the textbook it says under garments designating social status for women, "that a vitta is woolen band used o bind her hair was another element of the prescribed dress for Roman Matrons (Married women). " VITTA or plural VITTAE, a ribbon or fillet, is to be considered (1) as an ordinary portion of female dress; (2) as a decoration of sacred persons and sacred things. 1. When considered as an ordinary portion of female dress, it was simply a band encircling the head. and serving to confine the tresses the ends, when long, hanging down behind. It was worn (1) by maidens (2) by married women also, the vitta assumed on the nuptial day being of a different form from that used by virgins. The vitta of married women was a double band, whereas the fillet of maidens was single. Purple and White are mentioned for color and made from wool usually.
Tutulus
Braided hairstyle evolved into conical shape cap tutulus. Name given to a pile of hair on a woman's head, sometimes piled up to an enormous height. The tutulus was originally a style worn commonly in the late 6th and early 5th century BC[32] was a hairstyle worn primarily by the materfamilias, the mother of the family.[33] It remained in constant use even when fashion changed. To achieve it, the hair was divided and piled high and shaped into a bun, after which it was tied with purple fillets of wool. By the end, the hair would be conical in shape. It was also the hairstyle worn by the flaminicae (priestess).
2. Emma Yochim Dalmatic
The Dalmatic is a wide-sleeved, long-sleeved vestment that has slits on the sides. It's typically worn by Priests and Bishops in the Catholic, Lutheran, Anglican, United Methodist churches. It is also sometimes worn by monarchs during their coronations. It's meant to match the liturgical color of the day.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalmatic (Links to an external site.)
https://episcopalchurch.org/library/glossary/dalmatic (Links to an external site.)
https://www.ewtn.com/catholicism/library/when-to-wear-a-dalmatic-4738
3. Wendy Triana Bulla:
Also called, "Etruscum aurum". It is a pendant that is made of two convex disks made of gold and silver. They are generally small, and tend to be fore infants to wear. There is usually a scene from the Etruscans mythology, most likely as a way to have the gods protect this child who would wear it. The latest it was used was until the 7th century.
Survey of Historical Costume by Phyllis G. Tortora and Keith Eubank
https://collections.dma.org/artwork/4125550 (Links to an external site.)
Clavi or Clavus: They were a purple band that went on the hem of the tunics that would wrap around the shoulders. These stripes were woven into the fabric. Wearing this meant you were a Roman Senator. It also meant that you came from a well-know wealthy family wearing the clavus. Children from these families would wear it too in hopes one day they will become senators.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/senatorian (Links to an external site.)
http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/secondary/SMIGRA*/Clavus_Latus.html (Links to an external site.)
4. Allison Boyes -
"Widows in mourning would replace the pallus with another draped garment called a rincinium which was likely dark-colored. In addition, they would wear a dark-colored square on their hair. These were worn for at least a year." This is a depiction of the story about the widow's Mite. "The Gospel of Mark specifies that two mites (Greek lepta) are together worth a quadrans. the smallest Roman coin. A lepton was the smallest and least valuable coin in circulation, worth about six minutes of an average daily wage."
Sources:
https://greeceandrome.wordpress.com/2014/02/13/standard-clothing-for-the-roman-woman/ (Links to an external site.)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soccus (Links to an external site.) https://mymodernmet.com/womens-shoes-ancient-rome/
5. Elizabeth Gibbons: Paludamentum
The paludamentum was a cape-like garment that was worn by the officers of war. This garment was primarily ceremonial, and helped differentiate commanding officers from the common soldiers. The paludamentum would be fastened across the chest near the right shoulder with a clasp; and drape behind the commanding officer to the back of his knees or lower. It was often either purple, bright red or white in color, and may have tassels or other significant designs indicating rank. This garment can be found on Roman sculptures of emperors. The paludamentum indicated a higher status of any who are depicted wearing it.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/11540542770372954/ (Links to an external site.)
https://www.cointalk.com/threads/the-roman-paludamentum-challenge.340352/ (Links to an external site.)
http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus:text:1999.04.0063:entry=paludamentum-cn (Links to an external site.)
https://www.definitions.net/definition/paludamentum (Links to an external site.)
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
Sagum
The sagum was the common cloak of the Roman soldier. It would be made of wool. Often the wool would be woven with the natural oils of the sheep intact in the fibers, to help waterproof the fabric. The sagum was designed to offer the soldier protection from the elements during the day, and could double as a blanket to keep him warm at night. This garment was often a common dull reddish color. The toga was the garment worn to signal times of peace; contrarily, the sagum was worn to signal times of war. When war broke out in Italy, ordinary citizens would don the sagum in place of the toga - sometimes even in the cities.
http://www.stougiannidis.gr/sagum.htm (Links to an external site.)
https://www.wordnik.com/words/sagum (Links to an external site.)
https://www.romanobritain.org/8-military/mil_soldiers_cloak_.php (Links to an external site.)
http://www.tribunesandtriumphs.org/roman-clothing/roman-cloaks.htm (Links to an external site.)
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
6. Amber Davidson Perizoma
Etruscan perizoma was a loincloth worn by itself or as an undergarment. Laborers and physically active men wore this as outerwear. The textbook mentions that when it was worn as an undergarment, they would have a short shirt like chiton over it. Or a slightly longer chiton which was called a tunic.
https://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/etruscan-and-roman-dress-costume-history/deck/6001304 (Links to an external site.)
https://www.pinterest.it/pin/185210603405272613/ (Links to an external site.)
Strophium
Strophium was a breast band of fabric (of linen or leather) folded and tucked around the chest, worn by women in ancient Rome to support their breasts, similar to a bandeau top. According to some websites I read, women at the time strived to meet a certain body type. Large breasts at this time were viewed as comical and were a sign of aging, so women would bind their breasts using a strophium. The ideal body type was to be slender with small breasts and large hips. In hopes of stopping their breasts from becoming too large, women would use a it to bind and reduce their breast size. It was also used by women when exercising for support. Women at this time would play sports, and were part of the olympics.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/490118371931409262/ (Links to an external site.)
https://www.forbes.com/sites/kristinakillgrove/2015/06/19/caesar-undressing-ancient-romans-wore-leather-panties-and-loincloths/#5f1d78f7606e (Links to an external site.)
https://www.phoenixtheatreensemble.org/women-clothing-in-ancient-greece-rome 7. Maggie Morton
Paenula The paenula is a very heavy cloak made of wool. It is semicircular in shape, closed at the front, and has a hood. It is mainly an outdoor clothing item which was worn when traveling in bad weather. It was pretty similar to a poncho. It featured a large piece of material with a hole for the head to go through, hanging in lots of folds around the body. It is still evident in the modern poncho today. It originated in ancient Rome and was initially worn by slaves, soldiers, and people of the lower class. However, it became popular as a riding or travelling cloak in the third century.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/471963235941971064/?nic_v2=1a6fz1D47 http://pitts.emory.edu/dia/image_details.cfm?ID=134646
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
Palla/Pallium
The palla is a traditional ancient Roman mantle worn by women. It is a draped shawl like the Greek himation. As with many of the Roman clothing styles, the palla was an adaptation of a Greek himation which also was a large rectangular woolen cloth draped around the body and worn by both men and women in Greece. The palla was placed over the outer tunic and draped very similarly to the toga. It was casually pulled across the shoulder or pulled over the head like a veil and fastened by brooches. The shape was rectangular instead of semicircular as with the traditional toga. The most common way of wearing it was to hold one end of the palla over the front of the left shoulder, then wrap it behind the back, under the right arm, and bring it across the left forearm or over the left shoulder. Women would drape it over their head while obeying a custom that said well-bred women should keep their head covered in public. The pallium is just like the palla but worn by men. It is also a broad rectangle that was draped around the shoulders. However, the difference was that the pallium crossed in front and was held in place with a belt. Along with the stola, the palla was the most common piece of clothing worn by women in ancient Rome. It was very simple, but yet its simplicity allowed for it to be used in a lot of different ways. It could be worn around the body, used as a blanket, thrown on the ground as carpet, draped on a horse for display, or strung up to use as a sail on a boat. The palla would come in a variety of colors like blue, green, yellow, or they could be simple in white or brown. It is very similar to a shawl worn today by women.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/The-Ancient-World-Rome/Palla.html
https://www.thoughtco.com/roman-dress-for-women-117821
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
8. Nora Terry Sagum
(pg 93) Like an Abolla (greek) a folded rectangle fanstening on the right shoulder. Single layer of thick wool- usually red. Soldiers wore it, and in times of war so did citizens. The phrase put the Sagun on means "go to war".
Toga Trabea
- appearance- apparently multicolored striped toga. Significance assigned to augurs (religious officials who prophesied the future) or important officials. Also I thought interesting some togas were pointed at the ends. Some rounded more useful ones were really rectangular
9. Jada Cordon
Tebanna: This was a type of mantle that was very versatile. It was a woven garment shaped in a semicircle. Both men and women would wear them and they could be worn in various ways. They could be worn like a himation, like a chlamys, or it could be draped back to front with curved side in front and the ends in the back. The meaning of a semi-circle represents half and half - conscious and unconscious, perfect and divine, visible and invisible.
10. Lexy Holman
Stola: a traditional garment reserved for free, married women. Like the toga, it denoted status and was worn among wealthy women. The stola was usually made from wool. Originally, women wore togas as well, but after the 2nd century BC, the toga was worn exclusively by men, and women were expected to wear the stola. At that point, it was considered disgraceful for a woman to wear a toga; wearing the male garment was associated with prostitution and adultery. The stola was a staple of fashion in ancient Rome spanning from the early Roman Republic through the Roman empireand Byzantine empire into the first millennium. A well-known image of the stola is the one worn by the Statue of Liberty in NYC.
http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing2.html (Links to an external site.)
https://siterepository.s3.amazonaws.com/00640201011021149599270.pdf (Links to an external site.)
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
Tutulus: was a symbol of status to the wearer in the 5th and 6th century BC. Worn only by Roman matron’s when her husband became the pater familias. Was a style derived from Etruscan fashion. This style was worn only by the mother of the family, or the materfamilias. To achieve it, the hair was divided and brought up into a high bun, peeking over the crown of the head. The bun was anchored and tied with purple fillets of wool. After the styling was completed, the hair should be conical in shape. It was also the hairstyle worn by the priestesses, the flaminicae.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://www.explore-italian-culture.com/ancient-roman-bridal-fashion.html
11. Rebecca Odd Flammeum The Roman bride’s veil was known as a flammeum,which is believed to be flame-colored. The color of the veil was meant to symbolize the couple’s intent to remain married for the rest of their lives. Additionally, the flammeum is thought to have covered the bride from head to toe, which was intended to make her look like she was on fire, hence giving it its apotropaic power. Alternatively, it has been suggested that the veil was made to match the height of the bride, so that it may be re-used as her burial shroud. However, the color of the veil is still under debate. Whatever the color, there is a consensus that the veil would make the bride appear as if she were a candle flame. This was done to ward off evil spirits that might threaten to ruin the special day and all the proceedings. In a pool of theories on the function of the bride’s veil, this seems to be the favorite one: To confuse the spirits.
https://www.thevintagenews.com/2018/05/26/wedding-veil/ (Links to an external site.)
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://www.ancient-origins.net/history-ancient-traditions/origins-bridal-veil-0011480
Mappa A table napkin (guest brought their own napkins when invited to dinner). Used for wiping the mouth and hands, after washing before and after a meal, in a basin brought by a slave. The large cloth was spread over the edge of the couch as protection from food taken in a reclining position. The fabric was also used to blot the lips. Each guest brought his own large mappa and they became the first known "doggy bags" as guests leaving a Roman dinner had their mappa filled with leftover delicacies from the enormous feasts to take home.
http://etiquipedia.blogspot.com/2014/07/etiquette-and-few-words-on-napkins.html (Links to an external site.)
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/358247345338611269/?nic_v2=1a3fE1v69
12. McKelle Marshall Lorica
The lorica segmentata was made from strips of iron put together with leather strps in an overlapping fashion. It's these leather strips that give the lorica segmentata it's strength and flexibility, and thus is a great defence against enemy swords and stabbing weapons.
https://www.romanobritain.org/8-military/mil_roman_soldier_curiass.php
The Roman lorica segmentata (segmented cuirass) is formed of four primary sections: left/right upper shoulder, breast and back plates, and left/right lower girth hoops of overlapping metal strips for torso protection, all fastened to internal leather straps. It was compact and easy to transport when not being worn.
http://www.imperium-romana.org/roman-armour.html
Vitta—A woolen band used to bind the hair of the roman matron. Vitta VITTA or plural VITTAE, a ribbon or fillet, is to be considered (1) as an ordinary portion of female dress; (2) as a decoration of sacred persons and sacred things. When considered as an ordinary portion of female dress, it was simply a band encircling the head. and serving to confine the tresses (crinales vittae); the ends, when long (longae taenia vittae), hanging down behind
http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus:text:1999.04.0063:entry=vitta-cn (Links to an external site.)
It was worn by maidens and by married women also, the vitta assumed on the nuptial day being of a different form from that used by virgins… The colour was probably a matter of choice, white and purple are both mentioned…One of those represented in the cuts below is ornamented with embroidery, and they were in some cases set with pearls II: When employed for sacred purposes, it was usually twisted round the infula [Infula], and held together the loose flocks of wool
http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/secondary/SMIGRA*/Vitta.html (Links to an external site.)
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/531002612293636018/
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