FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Five
Chapter Five
Chapter Five: The Early Middle Ages Vocab
1. McKelle Marshall Biliaut
The bliaut was worn by both men and women from around 1150 to 1250 all over Europe. Bliauts were usually made of wool, linen, or silk. https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html the bliaut was a long gown worn by wealthy men and women beginning in the 1100s. Along with the houppelande, a long, full, outer garment, the bliaut was one of the long garments most associated with the late Middle Ages (c. 500–c. 1500). One of the most striking things about the bliaut was the sheer amount of fabric used in its construction. Bliauts had many, many folds and drapes, and thus used twice as much fabric as might be needed for a flat skirt. Women's bliauts often had hundreds of pleats. Women's bliauts reached all the way to the ground. Both men and women wore belts or some form of sash with their bliauts. Bliauts might have been made from fine wool or linen, but those worn by the wealthiest people were likely to have been made of silk.
https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/bliaut
https://adamselindisdress.blog/2014/04/28/12th-century-dress-the-bliaut/
https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/bliaut.html
Barbette A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages. So the barbette is most clearly defined as the secured linen band under the chin. “Most women covered their hair entirely and wrapped veils so closely that only the face showed. A linen band – barbette – passed down from the temple under the chin and up to the other, called a fillet, rather like a crown.” (134) The class differences would have been apparent through the quality of the linen worn; a noblewoman of means would have had an extremely fine, almost transparent barbette, and a working woman like this would have had something thicker and more coarsely woven.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/barbette/#:~:text=A%20piece%20of%20linen%20which,coverings%20during%20the%20Middle%20Ages.&text=So%20the%20barbette%20is%20most,linen%20band%20under%20the%20chin.
The barbette was worn from the 12th century and was a band of linen that passed under the chin, as a chin strap, and was pinned on top of the head. The barbet was worn with a linen fillet or headband, or with a linen cap called a coif, with or without a couvrechef (kerchief) or veil overall. The barbet and fillet or barbet and veil could also be worn over the crespine.
http://www.themcs.org/costume/Female%20reenactment%20costume.htm
https://maniacalmedievalist.wordpress.com/2012/10/10/on-yer-heade-part-ii/
2. LEXY HOLMAN Garnache-
Long cloak with cap-like sleeves. It was often lined or collared with fur and was open at the sides under the arms. Typically worn by men of all social classes during the Middle Ages (c. 500–c. 1500). Most likely made of thicker wool. The primary purpose of these garments was to protect the wearer from inclement weather and provide warmth.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Ganache-and-Gardcorps.html#ixzz6ZZCVd3pR
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/glossary.html
Cloak - Paludamentum was a broad term referring to several varieties of cloaks that were worn during the time of the Byzantine Empire (476–1453 C.E. ). Worn by both men and women, these cloaks were worn over the standard garments of the day. Rectangular cloaks were reserved for lower classes until the 12th century. It was eventually replaced by a simple square or semicircular cloak, after the 7th & 8th centuries. The chlamys, (a semicircular cloak) was often worn by the upper classes with the length varying between the hips and falling all the way to the ankles. For the upper class, cloaks were often made of silk and were highly decorated, sometimes with embroidered borders. A common form of decoration was a square-or diamond-shaped pattern called a tablion, which was sewn on the front of the garment. Tablions were symbols of rank and could only be worn by members of the upper class.
Read more:
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-The-Byzantine-Empire/Paludamentum.html#ixzz6ZZI2On3D
http://www.historyofclothing.com/clothing-history/byzantine-dress/
3. Amber Davidson Girdle
A girdle is a belt originally made to bring together tunics and originated in Greece. The textbook mentions that in the early Middle Ages they were decorated with jewels as a sign of wealth. Both men and women wore girdles. For men, it symbolized preparation and readiness to serve. For women, it represented chastity and protection.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girdle#:~:text=The%20girdle%2C%20for%20men%2C%20symbolizes,Ages%2C%20as%20attested%20in%20literature.
https://rosaliegilbert.com/beltsandgirdles.html
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/229542912227946633/
Fitchets The textbook mentions that fitchets, also known as slits, were openings on a garment for hands to be able to slide into garments for warmth, or to reach a purse hung from a belt inside the garment. To the modern eye in pictures they look like pockets. They were vertical slits in an outdoor garment.
https://rosaliegilbert.com/glossary.html
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/a/history-of-pockets/
4. Maggie Morton Hose- Also known as stockings. They were tied into place around the knee for women and fastened around the waist by a belt for men. They were made as separate garments for each leg that extended to the ankle and were cut on the bias to achieve a closer fit. As hemlines of outer garments rose, men sought for more attractive ways to display their legs. Slowly, hose began to extend further and further up the leg, and breeches became smaller. They eventually became joined together at the waist to form what we think of today as tights. Most hose were made of wool, while those who were wealthy might have them made of silk or velvet.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Hose-and-Breeches.html
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1400-1409/
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
Wimple- A wimple was a very common head covering for the women of the Middle Ages. They were light veils, usually made of linen or silk. They were fastened all the way around the neck, up to the chin. Sometimes the bottom edge of the wimple would be tucked into the collar of the dress. It provided protection from the weather, as well as modesty. The simplicity and modesty of the wimple made it a popular choice for nuns. During the Middle Ages, many nuns adopted the wimple as part of their uniform dress, and many nuns continue to wear the wimple in the twenty-first century. White wimples were a sign of status. If it were unbleached that meant you were poor because of the cost it took to make a garment white.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Wimple.
html https://www.britannica.com/topic/wimple
5. Rachael Barker Alb
By the 9th century, the alba was established as a part of the liturgical costume of the Roman Catholic Church. It was a long white tunic with narrow sleeves and a slit for the head, tied with a belt. The name is derived from the Roman tunica alba (white tunic). This vestment was usually white for bishops and priests; for the other orders any color, except for black, could be used.
Tortora, P. G. & Eubank, K. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume (5th edition). Fairchild Books.
https://www.newadvent.org/cathen/01251b.htm https://books.google.com/books?id=oil4DgAAQBAJ&pg=PT1507&lpg=PT1507&dq=alba+white+tunic+middle+ages&source=bl&ots=ujDvVKJyBi&sig=ACfU3U1cRyAxeX4mTeIhbBzbtysyPaX_Xg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjPrueB25_pAhVKknIEHVgxBZMQ6AEwC3oECAcQAQ#v=onepage&q=alba%20white%20tunic%20middle%20ages&f=false
6. Amice: Sarah Holbrook
The amice is a liturgical vestment worn by the priest during mass. It is a white strip or triangle of linen worn over the shoulders and around the neck, like a collar, and tied or secured. Early forms of the amice also covered the head. It is worn underneath the alb and chasuble to protect these garments from touching the skin. A small cross is sewn in the middle of the amice and a priest must kiss it before putting it on. The amice is only worn by catholic clergy of certain levels. A subdeacon receives the amice from the bishop for ordination. It is both a practical and symbolic covering of the throat (or voice).
Sources:
https://www.britannica.com/topic/amice
https://www.newadvent.org/cathen/01428c.htm
7. Rebecca Odd Braies-
Loose-fitting linen breeches fastened at the waist with a belt. Lengths of this clothing item carried from knee length to ankle length versions. They would have been wrapped close to the leg with gartering. Medieval men's underpants were fairly loose drawers known as braies or breeches. Varying in length from upper-thigh to below the knee, braies could be closed with a drawstring at the waist or cinched with a separate belt around which the top of the garment would be tucked. Braies were usually made of linen, most likely in its natural off-white color, but they could also be sewn from finely woven wool, especially in colder climes. In the Middle Ages, braies were not only used as underwear, they were frequently worn by laborers with little else when doing hot work. These could be worn well below the knees and tied to the wearer's waist to keep them out of the way.
8. Sidney Young Chainse:
A Chainse was a long, white linen gown that was worn over a chemise. It was an informal version of the bliaut and was worn by mostly working or middle-class women, or as a "house-dress" for upper-class women. It was always made of a durable fabric since it was considered to be a work/country house dress, and was also considered to be a summer dress. It was most likely pleated and most always worn without anything over it. 8. Chloe Crismon Chausses Our book describes Chausses as protective legwear for soldiers. It could be chainmail or metal plates, and it either covered only the shins or wrapped around the entire calf. Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines it as the early medieval tight-fitting garment worn by men to cover the legs and feet and sometimes the body below the waist https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/chausses The Collins Dictionary gives the same definition as the other sources, but a secondary note says they were also worn as tights for men. They covered the foot, calf, thigh, and lower torso. I believe this was a secondary item that simply shared the same name since the armor would then be worn over.
https://www.collinsdictionary.com/us/dictionary/english/chausses
9. Rebekah Whitaker Chasuble:
When researching the term Google's dictionary actually defines it as a sleeveless outer vestment worn by a Catholic or High Anglican priest when celebrating Mass, typically ornate, and has a simple hole for the head. A chasuble is an evolved form of the paenula (type of cloak). This round Roman cape was given up by the laity but continued to be worn by clergy in a form with sides cut shorter to allow movement of the arms. A Y-shaped band of embroidery called the orphrey extended from each shoulder to meet and form a vertical line in the back and front of the chasuble. In the Eastern Orthodox Churches and in the Eastern Catholic Churches, the equivalent vestment is the phelonion.
10. McKenZ Phipps Cope-
A voluminous cape that was worn for processions. It was often up in the front and has a fastener at the breast with a clasp of some sort. This was worn for ceremonies. There would be certain colors or garments assigned for each of the ceremonies depending on the day or time period.
Sources:
Tortora, P. G. & Eubank, K. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume (5th edition). Fairchild Books.
https://www.holyart.com/blog/church-supplies/liturgical-cope-vestment-worn-priests-celebrations/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope
11. Cornette - Kayla Tayco
“The most important head coverings were the coif and hoods. Some hoods no longer had attached capes. By the end of the 13th century, hoods fitted the head more closely and some were made with a long, hanging tube of fabric at the back. The French called this a Cornette; the English, a liripipe.” “A Cornette is a piece of female headwear. It is essentially a type of wimple consisting of a large, starched piece of white cloth that is folded upwards in such a way as to create the resemblance of horns on the wearer's head. It was reported in The Times to have been "in fashion among the Ladies of Paris" in 1801, made of muslin or gauze and richly ornamented with lace.” Cornette hats have been transformed over time into beautiful interlacings with blows, flowers, and ribbons.
12. Cote - Aubrey Shuga
Both men and women wore an undertunic called a cote. The cote was worn over their undergarments and under their surcote/outer tunic. Upper-class men wore long cotes, and men of the working class wore short cotes. The sleeves were either long and fitted or loose and tapered at the wrist.A cote was likely pulled over the head and fastened at the neck and the wrists with buttons or laces to achieve the close fit. Both men and women commonly wore belts with their cote, to achieve the desired silhouette.
Fitchets were slits made in the clothing to access underneath the outdoor garments. They worked similar to modern-day pockets, though without a connected piece of fabric. People would use them to put their hands in for warmth, or to reach their money pouch hung on a belt on his waist. They were also sometimes used to lift up the outer garment to walk around so one wouldn't trample on the hem. They were used in both men and women's garments.
Tortora, P. G. & Eubank, K. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume (5th edition). Fairchild Books.
https://rosaliegilbert.com/glossary.html (Links to an external site.)
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/a/history-of-pockets/
14. Heidi Heki Gardecors,Gardecorps
A gardecor is a tunic-like outer garment covering the upper body. Literally translated, it means “bodyguard”. It was worn by both men and women, and men wore it underneath armor when they went into battle. When worn under armor, it could be a padded tunic. Women wore it when they traveled.
http://lexissearch.arts.manchester.ac.uk/entry.aspx?word=wardecorps
https://books.google.com/books?id=Rw9BAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA101&lpg=PA101&dq=Gardecors&source=bl&ots=rOpvm2rBto&sig=ACfU3U0gkQlDgghNE0ws6XmN58PC6m9PeA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjim5mG8J_pAhVUCM0KHSzCB0MQ6AEwB3oECB0QAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false
https://books.google.com/books?id=JvKjCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA102&lpg=PA102&dq=Gardecors/Gardecorps&source=bl&ots=N71Wd6Rtlc&sig=ACfU3U2ve3li9PTgLtlRAcAzuhRUbF1w0w&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwinnLHi8Z_pAhWVVc0KHeZkAz4Q6AEwAnoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=Gardecors%2FGardecorps&f=false
https://books.google.com/books?id=PeXfpsvFyysC&pg=PA117&lpg=PA117&dq=Gardecors/Gardecorps&source=bl&ots=bKopNapUSb&sig=ACfU3U3MmFNMrNnLhEI3YVDkGSPrbNeLZw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwinnLHi8Z_pAhWVVc0KHeZkAz4Q6AEwAXoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=Gardecors%2FGardecorps&f=false Middle age belt
Greek women with girdle under the bust and around the waist Sources:
https://rosaliegilbert.com/beltsandgirdles.html
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Godward_-_The_Ring.jpg
15. Sophia Bezzant Hauberk
The hauberk was a piece of armor that was made of thousands of chain mail. "Up until the 14th-century European mail was made of alternating rows of both riveted rings and solid rings. After that it was almost all made from riveted rings only. Both would have been made using wrought iron. Some later pieces were made of wrought steel with an appreciable carbon content that allowed the piece to be heat treated." It was shaped like a long shirt and it covered the torso and arms. Sometimes the sleeves were either long sleeves or three quarters. "The name itself derives from the Old Frankish word halsberg, which means protecting the neck." The hauberk was a heavy piece of armor, so it was only worn by soldiers.
16. Herigaut-Theresa Williams Herigaut
http://www.worldwidewords.org/weirdwords/ww-lir1.htm
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Hoods.html
Tortora, P. G. & Eubank, K. (2010). Survey of Historic Costume (5th edition). Fairchild Books.
18. Lorum- (Cambria Head)
Also called Pallium is a long thin heavily Jeweled scarf. It was part of the official insignia of the emperor. The empress also was permitted to wear this garment. It was draped up the center front of the body and carried over one arm. It then later on was redesigned and became a simple panel of fabric that went up the center of your body and with an opening for your head.
19. Lillian Andrews Mantle
Mantles were extremely simple; they consisted of a large piece of cloth, rectangular, semicircular, or circular, that was wrapped across the shoulders and fastened. It is a type of loose garment usually worn over indoor clothing to serve the same purpose as an overcoat. Poor people might wear a mantle of undyed wool with a crude clasp. But wealthy people could wear mantles made of rich silk, trimmed with soft fur, and fastened with an expensive jeweled brooch.
20. Closed Mantle- Sarah Stewart
There were closed and open mantles. Open mantles were fastened by a piece of fabric, cord, or a button at the shoulder and the closed mantle just had a slit for the head to go through. Political and religious professions wore mantles for important ceremonies. Both men and women wore mantles. Mantles were first worn over the right shoulder and through time began to be worn over both shoulders.
21. Peliçon, pelisse - Morgan Soelberg
From the Latin word pellicus, meaning "made of skin," the term “peliçon/pelisson/pelisse” refers to any kind of garment that is trimmed/fully lined/decorated with fur. These could be outer wraps, under tunics, or outer tunics. The pelisse became popular again in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
22. Segmentae - Elizabeth Gibbons
Segmentae - plural segmentum - came into popular use at the end of the 5th century and beginning of the 6th century in Byzantium. A segmentae was an embroidered decoration, usually square or round, that was placed on a tunic. These patterned medallion-like designs would commonly be found on the sleeves and shoulders of a tunic, or at the front of the garment at knee-height. While segmentum are generally described as round or square, some patterns and designs used to form them could stretch into a rectangular shape, or create a line which would bend at right angles. The weave used to embroider these designs also made them suitable for use as a decorative trim at the neckline, sleeves, and hem of a garment.
http://housebarra.com/EP/ep01/07coptic.html
http://blacktauna.tripod.com/byzantineclothinginfo.html
https://world4.eu/byzantine-fashion/
https://ryi2fash124.weebly.com/fash124-history-of-costume-illustrated-digital-vocabulary-list/history-of-costume-digital-vocab-ch-56
https://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/evolution-of-fashion-exam-1/deck/13935838
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
23. Surcote - Amanda Reis
"A surcote initially was an outer garment commonly worn in the Middle Ages by both men and women in Western Europe. It can either refer to a coat worn over other clothes or the outermost garment itself. " There are two types of surcotes. One may be a more casual one that the women or men wear for the outdoors and travel. It is looser than the other type of surcote and can be seen with a deep v neck and long sleeves. The other type of surcotes are said to be a closer cut and are used at home or at fancier activities and social occasions. Many women would have more than one surcotes that they would wear. Some had fall and winter surcotes and the surcotes for the warmer months. People would also tie up their surcotes to show their fancy dresses underneath. There were also surcotes that were sleeveless or had short sleeves. There are many different types of surcotes that different class of people would wear. Some were fancy, some were not.
24. Tabard-Raelene Merkley
Tabard: “The tabard was originally a short loose garment with short or no sleeves that was worn by monks and lower-class men.” (1) It is a decorated smock that has open sides. It originated in the Holy Wars known as the Crusades. Knights were first wearing heavily chained armor and found that they were getting too hot from the sun hitting the metal. This led them to invent the tabard. The tabard was a “long piece of fabric with a hole cut in the middle for the head. It was belted at the waist.” (2) “On the medieval battlefield and at a tournament, a knight is frequently depicted wearing an outer garment over his armor that often bears an armorial display. This display allows identification of the knight when his features are obscured by his great helm in the chaotic environment of the medieval battlefield. The design of the garments varies quite considerably over different periods and cultures.” (3)
25. Wendy Triana: Stole et Amice
Textbook https://www.google.com/search?q=stole&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS773US773&oq=stole&aqs=chrome..69i57j46j0j46j0l3.3121j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.britannica.com/topic/stole Stole:
In the textbook, it is mentioned that it is a long scarf to wear during mass. It was worn by priests, deacons and bishops of the Roman Catholic church. It was worn by major vestments and for others would wear it over their left shoulder. The stole for the Roman Catholic church represents immortality. In today’s dictionary a stole is a long scarf but made with thick fabrics or fur worn as a fashion statement.
https://harcourts.com/blog/what-is-the-significance-of-the-vestments-priests-wear/
https://www.newadvent.org/cathen/01428c.htm
Amice: Is a big collar made of linen that covers to the shoulders as well. This was worn by a priest when saying mass. It is worn under the alb, is a rectangular cloth placed over the shoulders. The cloth is tucked in around the neck, over the priest’s street clothing and secured around the waist using two cloth ribbons. Although it is not a mandatory piece, it does have practical uses. It can be used as a scarf to keep the priest’s neck warm in the cold and can also protect expensive embroidered pieces from sweat and body oils. Amice signifies “Disciplined of the voice”
26. Allison Boyes - huke + bowl cuts
The huke "was a garment worn by upper class men. It originated as a covering for armor. It was closed over the shoulders and open at the sides"(pg 161) Shorter versions it had a slit in the front so they could walk better. It could be worn belted or unbelted, but it passed under the back so the back could hang It was common for hikes to be lined with fur, and the type of fur was regulated by sumptuary laws so classes could be distinguished. free. “The woman in the picture below is an example of a rather bizarre fad of the 15th century. Low birth rates combined with the “Black Death” plague of the previous century brought a period of depopulation to this area. It became fashionable in the 15th century for women to appear pregnant. There is even evidence of women wearing abdominal pads and walking with their hips thrust foward in order to enhance this illusion. Houppelandes belted just below the bustline also added to the affect.”
Sources:
https://www.coroflot.com/annipeng1/Fashion-Influence-The-Middle-Ages (Links to an external site.)
http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/agincourt.htm (Links to an external site.)
The Survey of Historic Costume
https://lowelldesigns.com/the-gothic-period-medieval/
27. Staci Moore Maniakis:
decorative and jeweled collar that the empress of Byzantine wore to Stand out. Very elaborate and expensive. (Textbook)
Houppelande
The houppelande was a long, very full outer garment from late in the Middle Ages (c. 500–c. 1500) worn by both men and women. First appearing in Europe in about 1350, the houppelande was worn by men over the top of a tunic and hose, or by women over a long underrobe. The houppelande was close-fitting in the shoulders but then billowed outward from there in many folds of fabric. By the late fifteenth century these folds were organized into long, tubular pleats. Had wide sleeves and hemline touched the floor that were trimmed into a deceptive pattern. Made from rich fabrics such as silk, velvet and brocade. Come in different colors and usually worn with a belt on the waist or below the bust.
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Houppelande.html#ixzz6Zcul1jH
28. Angel Cooper Pallium aka Lorum
A long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf, possibly evolved from the toga with the folded bands, that became part of the official insignia of the emperor. The empress was also permitted to wear this garment. initially draped up center-front, around the shoulders, across the front of the body, and carried over one arm, it eventually became a simpler panel of fabric with an opening for the head, sometimes with a round collar-like construction at the head opening. - Textbook
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonsure 29. Cornette & Liripipe - Jada Cordon These were head coverings in the 13th century.
The liripipe was a hood that hung closely to the head and had a long tube of fabric hanging off the back. These were most common among the English and it was usually associated with the scholarly and in academics. The equivalent today would be a graduation cap and tassel that we wear when graduating school.
“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cornette (Links to an external site.)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe
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