FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Thirteen

Chapter Thirteen

Chapter Thirteen: 1850-1869 The Crinoline Period 

1.Barege - Wendy Triana

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/barege 

https://www.collinsdictionary.com/us/dictionary/english/barege 

It is a sheer fabric made of silk or wool. It tends to be a more open weave. It was used for veils or dresses. 

 

 Basque- Wendy Triana 

 https://www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/clothing/basque.htm 

http://www.katetattersall.com/victorian-fashion-terms-a-m/ 

It is a term for a tight fitting form bodice or coat. It is to help accentuate the waists and hips. I am finding that Basques are an indigenous culture somewhere around northern Spain or France. They have their own language. 

Blue Jeans: McKelle Marshall 

Interestingly, two future powerhouses of American menswear saw their beginnings in the 1850s. Opened in 1818 under a different name, the enterprising menswear company in New York City inspired by the Savile Row tailors of London, changed its name to Brooks Brothers in 1850. It soon adopted its “golden fleece” logo, and made the savvy and forward-thinking choice to begin stocking ready-made clothing for men. Their high quality ready-to-wear menswear became a foundational pillar of American style (Betts 10-11). Meanwhile, across the country in California, during the height of the Gold Rush, a man named Levi Strauss began making work pants for miners out of heavy-duty canvas (Fig. 7). He came San Francisco in 1850 and planned to sell canvas for tents and wagon covers, but discovered the material could hold up to the hard wear of gold mining. Within a few years, he began making his sturdy work pants out of denim, a heavy twill-weave cotton, dyed blue with indigo, and blue jeans were born (Tortora 356; McNeil 331). Strauss’ jeans were a huge success becoming standard work-wear for farmers, miners, and cowboys throughout the nineteenth century, and eventually becoming fashionable everyday wear in the twentieth century. 

 https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1850-1859/ 

One of Levi’s customers was a tailor named Jacob Davis. One day the wife of a local laborer asked Jacob to make a pair of pants for her husband that wouldn’t fall apart. Jacob tried to think of a way to strengthen his trousers and came up with the idea to put metal rivets at points of strain, like pocket corners and the base of the button fly. These riveted pants were an instant hit. Jacob quickly decided to take out a patent on the process, but needed a business partner to help get the project rolling. He immediately thought of Levi Strauss, from whom he had purchased the cloth to make his riveted pants. Davis wrote to Levi to suggest that the two men hold the patent together. Levi, being an astute businessman, saw the potential for this new product, and agreed to Jacob’s proposal. The two men received patent #139,121 from the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office on May 20, 1873. 

https://www.levistrauss.com/2019/07/04/the-history-of-denim/ 

https://mashable.com/2015/03/17/oldest-levis-blue-jeans/ 

Braces better known as suspenders- Maggie Morton 

In England they were known as braces and in America, suspenders. The men would wear them to hold their trousers in place. As an alternative, some pants were constructed with a tab and a buckle at the back of the waistband and did not require suspenders. Most braces were constructed of silk, velvet, or canvas. An embroidered pair of suspenders was considered an appropriate gift from a young lady to her fiancé, or for a wife to create for her husband. The most popular embroidered braces were either geometric or floral designs. Often these braces were worn by the groom at his wedding and were preserved as a family heirloom. 

http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/victorianbraces.html 

http://content.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,2037331,00.html 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

Cage Crinoline - Maggie Morton 

The term crinoline took on a new definition in the 1850s that it has retained to this day. Crinoline was a stiff fabric used in petticoats to hold out skirts. When hoop skirts were introduced, people took to calling them cage crinolines. They eventually shortened the name to just crinoline. It was made out of horsehair and linen. “Crin” is the French term for horsehair and “lin” was the linen term. Today, the term crinoline is applied to any stiff petticoat, whether or not it includes a hoop of any kind. It appears in any period when wedding dresses have long, full skirts. The purpose of them is to help stiffen and extend the skirt. In 1856, horsehair was replaced by a light frame of metal spring hoops. The spring hoops were used to create volume underneath the hoop skirts as more and more support was needed. The horsehair crinolines were no longer sufficient because they were heavy and uncomfortable. This type of crinoline was more practical for the women as it increased in diameter towards the bottom. The type of design was strong enough to support the skirts and create the desired bell-shaped effect.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/cage-crinoline/ 

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-victorian-fashion/ 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

 Garibaldi Blouse- Lexy Holman 

The Garibaldi shirt or jacket of the 1860s owed its name to the outfit worn by the European revolutionary, Giuseppe Garibaldi. Notorious for its bright red color, the Garibaldi shirt was the forerunner of the modern day woman’s blouse. First introduced by Empress Eugenie of France in the early 1860s, the loose-fitting bodice was named after the Italian hero and was popular in both Europe and America as a comfortable garment for both women and children. In shape and pattern it was made in the same way as a Victorian gentleman’s shirt with pleats in front, extending just below the waist, with full sleeves and turned down cuffs. The ends of the Victorian shirt were left so as to be tucked underneath the skirt and still long enough to hang over in “bag fashion” all round producing a free flowing and graceful effect. 

 

http://www.victoriana.com/garibaldi-shirt/ 

https://maggiemayfashions.com/1860s-bodices-blouses-and-waists/ 

Inverness Cape- Lexy Holman 

Type of overcoat that was very loose. Had full sleeves and a cape ending at wrist length or sleeves were removed all together and the armholes were cut away beneath the cape. Inverness capes were one of the most popular outer garments for rainy weather. Part of the use of the wide arm holes is so that a sporran can be accessed without unbuttoning the coat. Inverness capes are worn by many fictional characters throughout history including Sherlock Holmes, Doctor Who, etc. 

https://www.historicalemporium.com/store/mens-coats.php?&type=Inverness 

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/vintage-evening-wear/outerwear-hats-frock-overcoat/

Knickerbockers, Knickers: Amber Davidson

 

 Texbook: Sportswear garment appeared after 1850. Full loose leg, or baggy trousers, belted into a band, gathered at the knee or just below and usually fastened with either a button or buckle. Originated from the practice of wearing fitted knee breached for riding, shooting, and hunting. These gradually became part of womens fashion as time goes on as well. 

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/knickerbockers/ 

https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/520939881870439377/ 

 Levi’s: Amber Davidson 

Texbook: The discovery of gold in Sutter's Mill California in 1848 brought more than 40 thousand prospectors to california within the next 2 years after. Along with minors came entrepreneurs. Who saw potential markets for selling to minors. The Garment Levis originated when the one Levi Strauss took a supply of heavy duty canvas to San Francisco in 1850 to sell to gold rush miners for tents. Minors did not have lasting suitable pants for mining, and mr. strauss hired tailors to make work pants for minors. The pants were a success, but when he ran out of canvas, for the second purchase of fabric, he chose denim having it dyed blue and indigo. Minors loved the pants and they have been a success ever since. That is why the term levis is often used synonymously with blue jeans. 

https://time.com/3854534/levi-strauss-anniversary/ 

https://mukundsathe.com/2015/06/06/this-day-in-history-6-jun-1850-levi-strauss-make-his-1st-pair-of-blue-jeans/ 

Middy blouse- Nora Terry 

http://fuzzylizzie.com/middy.html 

Around 1880, women's sport blouses began sporting sailor type collars. This type collar was soon used on bathing suits and gymnasium uniforms as well. This was not a true middy, as it was designed to be tucked into, buttoned onto, or attached to the skirt or bloomers. Photo circa 1905. 

Pea Jacket Nora Terry- THE HISTORY OF THE PEA COAT 

Throughout history, fashion designers and stylists have drawn their inspiration from military uniforms. Many of these designs have been fads and have gone in and out of style. However, one exception that has remained in style is the Pea Coat. 

The Pea Coat was first worn in the 1800’s by sailors in the European navies. Originally the coats were made of a heavy twill cloth call pilot cloth or P-cloth. This heavy coarse fabric was designed to protect sailors in bad weather. 

The Pea Coat is a heavy outer coat and is recognizable by its wide lapels, large buttons and vertical pockets. Pea coats are double breasted and traditionally fall at the mid-thigh. The original pea coat was so heavy that it featured a metal chain at the neckline, which was used to hang it. The original Pea Coat was made from 30 ounce wool. It came in one color, dark navy blue, and its wide lapels could be turned up and buttoned to keep the neck and ears warm. A standard issue pea coat has eight buttons with the anchor symbol on them. 

 

Some of the methods that can be used to determine if the Pea Coat is authentic would be to first check if the coat is double breasted. Secondly, there should be six buttons visible on the face of the coat and they should carry the anchor design.

See if the material used is 32 oz. Melton wool and the pockets on the front of the coat should both be vertical. If the coat has an original U.S. Navy label inside, you can be reasonably assured it is original. To determine if a Pea Coat is vintage, there are some possible methods that you can use to determine this. First, go through the inside of the vintage Navy Pea Coat along the seams to find a label. Labels may also be inside the pockets. A black label with yellow letters signifies a pre 1965 coat. World War II pea coats will have a label that says “Manufactured by Naval Clothing Factory” with images of anchors in two corners. 

These coats can be dated as having been made during World War II between 1939 and 1945. No U.S. Navy pea coat will be older than the early 1900’s when the Navy began using them. In addition determine what color the coat is. Vintage Navy pea coats are navy blue. U.S. Navy pea coats have been black since 1980. Colors can be confusing and the U.S. Navy color “Blue 3346” is such a dark navy blue as to appear black to the human eye. 

Princess Dress - Angel Cooper 

Raglan Cape - Elizabeth Gibbons A type of overcoat inspired by Lord Raglan which has unique sleeves sewn into the collar rather than in the shoulder. 

https://fashionterminology.weebly.com/19th-century.html 

https://www.studocu.com/en-us/document/texas-womans-university/history-of-costume/lecture-notes/chapter-13-class-lecture-on-costume-during-the-crinoline-period-teachers-name-mrs-remy/2065776/view 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/439030663659579195/ 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/757660337280867762/?d=t&mt=login 

Reefer - Jada Cordon 

The same thing as a pea jacket, they were loose, double-breasted jackets with side vents and small collars. These were worn as overcoats. These were worn by the men in the 1850-1870s. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://vintagedancer.com/1900s/edwardian-1910s-historical-mens-fashion-and-clothing-an-overview/ 

Rotonde - Jada Cordon 

A shorter version of the talma-mantle (full cloak with tasseled hood or flat collar). 

 Allison Boyes- The Sack Jacket came about in everyday wear during the 1860’s but was first introduced as an alternative to the frock suit which was to be worn during sports activities at the seaside. It is generally considered more informal because all three pieces are made from the same fabric, however there have been times in history in which the suit was worn for business and travelling such as during the 1860’s or 1930’s-1940’s. 

Allison Boyes- Sailor Suits were officially introduced in 1857, which some claim to be attributed to the 1846 painting of, the four-year-old Albert Edward, Prince of Wales when he was given a scaled-down version of the uniform worn by sailors on the royal yacht which delighted the public and popularized the stereotypical sailor clothing that we recognize today. It is also commonly believed that bell bottoms come from sailor suits introduced in 1817 to permit men to roll them above the knee when washing down the decks and to make it easier to remove them in a hurry when forced to abandon ship or if washed overboard. 

Sources: Royal Navy, The History of Rating Uniforms Archived April 18, 2006, at the Wayback Machine 

Survey of Historic Costume 

https://www.thebalancecareers.com/navy-uniform-history-4054148#:~:text=In%201917%20the%20%22Forestry%22%20green,authorized%20to%20wear%20the%20uniform. 

Shawl Mantle - Elizabeth Gibbons 

The shawl-mantle was a specific type of mantle which would hang loose and long, almost reaching the hem of a lady’s skirt. It often was sleeveless, but could have loose sleeves cut in the same style as the shawl. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/10/history-of-womens-costume-crinoline.html 

https://www.wordnik.com/words/shawl-mantle 

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/475974254345308310/ 

Snood McKelle Marshall 

Typically, a snood consisted of a small bag made of fine thread that would be knitted, tatted, or crocheted into a net that was large enough to capture a lady’s hair at the back of her head. Usually the edge of this net had a more tightly woven edge, which would form a band that would go over the head, behind the ears, and around to the nape of the neck. In the 1860’s, snoods came back into fashion, and although the English word “snood” was still use in Europe, American Victorians called this particular type of headwear a “hairnet”. As with everything the Victorians adopted, the now-fashionable snood was often made of very fine material, which matched as closely as possible the wearer’s own hair color. Instead of simply holding hair out of the way while working, snoods were worn over carefully styled hair. Thus they were very different – and far more elegant than the previously utilitarian hair covering from earlier times. 

https://recollections.biz/blog/what-about-snoods/#:~:text=Typically%2C%20a%20snood%20consisted%20of,the%20back%20of%20her%20head. 

Next, if your hair is long enough, put the back up into a bun. 1860s buns tended to be in the low-middle portion of the head, not high up like the later 1870s-80s styles. If you hair is not long enough for a bun, put some hair gel or hair spray on it to keep it smooth and in place. Finally - the covering! In another post, I will cover proper bonnets and hats for the Civil War era. But for now, let's focus on the types of nets that were used. Hairnets of the 1860s were either a fine thin net, or a beautiful thick woven net made of silk ribbon or silk chenille. A pretty band was often attached to the net across the top which included braided or ruched ribbon, flowers, beads, or lace. Nets in the 1860s were not the thick crocheted nets of the 1950s. 

https://southroncreations.blogspot.com/2012/01/snoods-or-nets.html 

https://www.vintagehairstyling.com/bobbypinblog/2017/12/28-pictures-of-vintage-hair-snoods-that-will-make-you-want-to-wear-your-snood-tomorrow.html 

Talma Mantle Staci Moore 

Wide Awake (hat) Staci Moore 

Zouave - Angel Cooper