FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Fifteen

Chapter Fifteen

Chapter 15 Vocab. Edwardian & WWI

 

Ascot- Rebecca Odd 

The Ascot is the forefather of the modern necktie. It is named after the horse-race “The Royal Ascot” - an event at which men were required to wear this type of tie in combination with a tailcoat jacket. Unlike modern neckties, both ends of the tie have the same width. The tie is also tied much looser than a modern necktie, and the knot is typically secured with a decorative pin. Over time the Ascot has evolved to become better associated as a very casual garment that’s worn like a scarf and tucked under the shirt. 

https://bespokeunit.com/suits/ascot/#:~:text=What%20Are%20The%20Origins%20Of%20the%20Ascot%3F&text=Its%20name%20comes%20from%20Ascot,the%20presence%20of%20the%20queen. 

https://www.tiekings.co/pages/necktie-history#:~:text=The%20ascot%20originated%20during%20the,also%20known%20as%20morning%20coat). 

Blazer-Nora Terry-

pg 440(Survey of Historic Costume) Clothing for active sportswear. The modern sport jacket, worn with unmatched trousers can be seen in the blazer, which was worn for tennis, yachting or other sports. In one story 1837 when Queen Victoria reviewed the crew of HMS Blazer the captain lacking uniforms for his men, had them dress in dark blue jackets with shiny brass buttons when they took part in a parade in honor of the queen. The queen is said to have decreed that henceforth jackets of this style would be called blazers (Attaway 1991) Other sources claim the name from the “blazing” red color of these jackets when they were worn for sports. The Norfolk jacket was an English style of belted jacket for golf, bicycling and hiking . Knickers, long stockings sturdy shoes and a soft cap with a visor were often combined with these jackets. 

Brassiere- Lexy Holman 

The corset split in 1869, in France- and eventually came the bra. It was sold alone starting in 1905. The person who can be credited for the beginning of the bra as we know it today is an American woman named Mary Phelps Jacob, better known as Caresse Crosby. At the age of 19, Mary was looking for the proper foundation for a light flowing evening gown. The boning in her corset was visible under the sheer gown. So, with the help of her maid, she sewed together two silk handkerchiefs, using pink ribbon for the straps and cord to wrap around her body. 

 Bras from the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection 

When she showed what she made to her friends, they all wanted one. Within a short time, a stranger offered her $1 if she would make one for her. Mary filed for a patent in 1914 and received the first patent for a ‘Backless Brassiere’ in November 1915. Some but not all women wore a bra, usually called brassiere in the Edwardian era, which was worn over the corset to smooth out the lines. 

http://www.sewhistorically.com/dressing-the-1900s-woman-edwardian-lingerie/ 

https://recollections.biz/blog/from-corset-to-the-first-modern-bra/ 

Delphos gown- Lexy Holman 

The Delphos gown is a finely pleated silk dress first created in about 1907 by Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (Fortuny) that was iconic in the Edwardian era. It was inspired by, and named after, a classical Greek statue, the Charioteer of Delphi. Delphos gowns were dyed individually in a wide range of unusual colors, and the delicate silk was processed on porcelain rollers to create fine, uneven pleats, one of his many innovations. The early Delphos gowns had short bat-wing sleeves, laced along their tops. Because of the elastic quality of the pleating, Fortuny weighted his dresses by sewing cords strung with hand-blown Venetian glass beads down the sides. To keep their pleats, the dresses were stored in twists. 

http://www.edwardianpromenade.com/fashion/fortunys-delphos-gown-2/ 

https://art.branipick.com/fortuny-delphos-gown-c-1915-700x978/ 

Duster - Rebecca Odd 

Originally, dusters were worn by cowboys in the 19th century in the American West, to protect their clothing from trail dust. At the turn of the twentieth century, both men and women wore dusters to protect their clothes when riding in open automobiles. Dusters were sometimes referred to as car coats or motoring jackets.Riding in open and semi-open cars over unpaved country roads covered everyone with clouds of dust and dirt on even a short outing. Between 1900 and 1910 specially created protective driving clothes became popular for both men and women, and the duster was especially popular as a way to protect clothes from everything kicked up from the car. Owning a duster or motoring jacket quickly became a status symbol, indicating the wearer owned, or knew someone who owned, a car. In the 1950s, a duster was a woman's knee-length, button-front unfitted housecoat which could be thrown on over underwear for housework or cooking. 

 

https://www.wimuseum.org/lets-go-for-a-drive-the-motoring-duster/#:~:text=Originally%2C%20dusters%20were%20worn%20by,when%20riding%20in%20open%20automobiles.&text=Jerry%20Moon%20of%20Colchester%20donated%20the%20duster%20to%20the%20museum. 

https://www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/clothing/duster.htm 

Four-in-hand tie - Allison Boyes 

The Four-in-hand-tie is a way of tying a man's tie. It is believed to have originated back in the 1630’s. “The name four in hand was derived from the four horse carriage. The knot has a resemblance with the reins of the carriage, thus the origin of the name four in hand.” London gentleman’s clubs made this knot fashionable. The four-in-hand knot is one of the smallest knots and is frequently used with skinny ties. The Half-Windsor is also commonly used with skinny ties and is considered more formal. Full Windsor is used for wider collar spreads, double windsor is even thicker, and is mostly used to balance the shape of the wearer, it is very uncommon because of its bulkyness. 

Watch How to tie a four-in-hand knot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gu_u8HymQPw&feature=emb_title 

Sources: 

https://blog.spiffster.club/the-origins-and-all-we-know-about-the-four-in-hand-necktie/#:~:text=However%2C%20the%20decorative%20use%20of,celebrating%20their%20victory%20in%20Paris. 

Haute Couture - Allison Boyes 

In order for a designer to create something of Haute Couture has to be approved by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which is a federation of about 100 members that grant eligibility according to French Law. So, the legal difference between haute couture and ready to wear is that couture has to meet a specific criterion established by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. Some of these requirements include making clothing “in-house”, have at least one fitting for the client, employ at least 20 full-time technical people in at least one atelier (workshop), and present a collection of at least fifty original designs to the public twice a year of both day and evening garments. Couture will be designed to be worn by a very small number of clients if not only one. “The average time spent on a couture dress is around 300 hours and costs upwards of $90,000 dollars”. In summary, haute couture is high end fashion that is constructed by hand from start to finish, made from the highest quality of fabric (some of which is also made in house), sewn with extreme attention to detail-often using hand executed techniques. 

Videos to Watch: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_RC9Cxjqig 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKHSVReOKuc 

Designers who are considered to be Haute Couturiers at the end of 2019 

• Adeline André 
• Alexandre Vauthier 
• Alexis Mabille 
• Bouchra Jarrar 
• Chanel 
• Dior 
• Frank Sorbier 
• Giambattista Valli 
• Givenchy 
• Jean-Paul Gaultier 
• Julien Fournié 
• Maison Margiela 
• Maison Rabih Kayrouz 
• Maurizio Galante 
• Schiaparelli 
• Stéphane Rolland 

Sources: 

“History.” Fédération De La Haute Couture Et De La Mode, fhcm.paris/en/the-federation/history/. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKHSVReOKuc 

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-couture/christian-dior/slideshow/collection#24 

Hobble skirt McKelle Marshall 

During the first decade of the 1900s, just as women began demanding more freedom, more rights, and more comfortable fashions, one of the most restrictive styles of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries came into vogue. This was the hobble skirt, a tight, ankle-length skirt that grew narrower at the hem. Popular between 1905 and 1910, the hobble skirt was so tight at the ankles that the woman wearing it could only walk in very short steps. vThe idea allegedly originated with Paul Poiret, the French designer who claimed in 1908 that he had “freed the bust [but] shackled the legs. The very nature of this skirt limited its marketability as only women that lived lives of luxury and ease could afford such limited mobility’ Yet hobble skirt became the most popular trend of the Edwardian era. I think that women in this era were the most fashionable women in history. And as was common with most preceding aristocratic fashions, appearance trumped functionality. 

https://medium.com/@kanupriya.goenka/why-did-the-hobble-skirt-become-popular-e86dbdd06880 

During the first decade of the 1900s, just as women began demanding more freedom, more rights, and more comfortable fashions, one of the most restrictive styles of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries came into style. This was the hobble skirt, a tight, ankle-length skirt that grew narrower at the hem. Popular between 1905 and 1910, the hobble skirt was so tight at the ankles that the woman wearing it could only walk in very short steps. In the early 1900s many westerners were fascinated by the clothing styles of Asia and the Middle East. Famous French fashion designer Paul Poiret (1879–1944) created many popular designs based on Eastern clothing. The hobble skirt, which reached its peak of popularity in 1910, was a variation on the harem skirt designed by Poiret to resemble the styles of the Middle East. Another popular variation on the same design was the peg skirt. Like the hobble skirt, the peg skirt was tight at the hem, but it was wider at the top, creating a loose blousy effect as the skirt tapered sharply in at the bottom. Both the skirts forced the wearer to walk with tiny steps, the way many westerners imagined women might walk in the East. Horses are hobbled by tying their front legs together with a short rope to prevent them from running away. The hobble skirt was named after this practice. Women who wore the skirt often wore another type of hobble as well. The hobble garter was a band made of fabric that was worn under the hobble skirt, wrapped around each leg just below the knee. A band connected the legs, preventing the wearer from accidentally taking too long a step and ripping her fashionable hobble skirt. Some hobble skirts were also made with a slit in the back to make walking easier. When sitting, the slit could be buttoned in order to keep the ankles modestly covered. 

Read more: 

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1900-1918/Hobble-Skirts.html#ixzz6dPOOYJHs 

https://www.outfitterssupply.com/horse-hobbles.asp 

 Jodhpur : Emma Yochim 

The Jodhpur was originally made for horse riding. It was fitted around the waist and the knees and ankles but flared at the hips. The pants allowed movement at the waist, but comfort in all other areas. After time they became a fashionable statement. Some movie directors even took to wearing them on set. The Jodhpur originated from India and was for sitting in general. 

 https://visforvintage.net/2012/11/25/jodhpurs/ 

Juliet cap : Emma Yochim 

A small cap often decorated with pearls or beads. It’s worn typically with evening wear or bridal wear. THe cap is named after Shakesperes Romeo and Juliet. Usually they would be quite costly but it can be different for each user. When worn for bridal wear it had various lengths of veil attached to it. 

https://www.brittenweddings.com/pages/what-is-a-juliet-cap-veil 

Knickers (undergarment): Amber Davidson 

Textbook: combination underwear, ornamented with lace and embroidery. Rather than drawers, knickers underwear consisted of two separate legs joined at the waist. They really were a 'pair' of knickers. 

http://www.localhistories.org/knickers.html 

https://www.pinterest.com/charlseyfawkes/1890s-1900s-womens-undergarments/ 

Lingerie dress: Amber Davidson 

Textbook: Frill cotton or linen dress with decoration. The Fabric and decoration resemble womens undergarments or lingerie of the period. The lingerie dress was worn at summer garden parties, the races, or at other promenade activities. The word lingerie is derived from the French word for linen, lin. Lingerie were things made from linen. 

https://pinsndls.com/2012/01/21/1900-1910-the-reign-of-the-lingerie-dress/ 

https://thedreamstress.com/2018/07/terminology-what-is-a-lingerie-dress-or-lingerie-frock-and-blouse-and-skirt/ 

Lounge coat- Staci Moore 

The lounge suit typically consisted of a sack coat, a waistcoat (vest), and trousers. Collars were worn starched and high on the neck. It was referred to as a “lounge suit” because it was far less formal than the suit worn with a frock coat. Though it was worn more frequently in the 1910s, it was previously a well-to-do man’s least formal suit, one that would have been worn to lounge in his home. The lounge suit was often worn with a Homburg hat, a felt hat with a dent down the top, or a bowler hat. Men of the upper-classes continued to wear top hats. Three-piece lounge suits were worn for less formal day functions, and for country and sportswear the Norfolk jacket and knickerbockers remained popular. 

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1910-1919/ 

https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing/The-early-20th-century 

Minaret tunic- Staci Moore 

Pajamas -Nora Terry

(pg 467 Survey of HIstoric Costume)- Night clothing consisted of either nightgowns or pajamas, both of which had long straight lines.

Peg-top skirt- Maggie Morton 

The type of skirt was a very popular silhouette in the early 1912. It was similar to the hobble skirt, but at the hips were very exaggerated with fullness, then they tapered down at the bottom of the skirt at the ankles. They weren’t the easiest to walk in. Women were forced to take a little steps or else they would risk tripping or ripping her skirt. One tailor in 1912 made the comment that if a woman wearing peg-top clothing found herself in an emergency, she would have to “hop like a kangaroo” to escape. 

https://www.mdhistory.org/peg-top-clothing-an-evening-gown/ 

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1900-1918/Peg-Top-Clothing.html 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

Picture hat- Maggie Morton 

Also known as Gainsborough hat. They were very elaborate women's hats with a wide brim. It has been suggested that the name may be derived the way the broad brim frames the face like a round picture frame. They were decorated with lots of feathers, bows, flowers, birds, lace, and tulle. They became popular in the early 1890s and remained popular until the early 1910s. The picture hats declined in popularity with WWI when styles became less ornamented and simple. They then became popular again at the end of the 1920s and remained popular well into the 30’s. 

https://thedreamstress.com/2011/12/terminology-what-is-a-picture-hat/ 

https://designyoutrust.com/2019/09/picture-hats-one-of-the-favorite-fashion-styles-of-edwardian-women/#:~:text=The%20Edwardian%20fashion%20era%20is,the%20halo%20or%20cartwheel%20hat 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

Pompadour - Elizabeth Gibbons 

A hairstyle in which hair was swirled and wavy, and built high in front and at the sides of the face. It was often supported with rolls of padding. The purpose of this hairstyle was to aid in supporting women’s large hats of the time. This hairstyle was often seen in representations of the Gibson girl - a representation of the ideal beautiful female of this time period. 

 https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-edwardian-hairstyles/ 

http://www.photodetective.co.uk/Edw-hair.html 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

Princess petticoat: Wendy Triana 

https://www.antique-gown.com/en/lingerieii/princess-petticoat,-ca-1908 

https://ameliaseamstress.wordpress.com/2018/09/26/making-a-1912-princess-slip-and-final-titanic-pictures/#:~:text=First%20of%20all%2C%20what%20is,over%20the%20corset%20and%20chemise. 

It is an undergarment that is meant to be a petticoat and to cover the corset. 

Trench coat: Wendy Triana 

It came just after WWI for men to wear. Thomas Burberry invented “gabardine”, a breathable yet weatherproofed twill made by coating individual strands of cotton or wool fiber rather than the whole fabric. (Smithsonianmag) It was designed to deal with the trenches during war time since anybody can get dirty and sick being in trenches. Burberry and Aquascutum claim to have come up with the trench but not too sure who came up with it first. It is now today’s must have items. 

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/trench-coat-made-its-mark-world-war-i-180955397/ 

Pullover - Jada Cordon 

Knitted sweaters that pulled over the head. These became popular after 1915. “Pullovers had no discernible waist, were belted at the hip, and had long sleeves.” Pullovers for women were often accredited to the designer Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel. These sweaters were softer, warmer and more affordable. Pullovers were liked and worn but not only the wealthy, but the lower class as well. 

 https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/1920s-mens-sweaters/ 

https://vintagedancer.com/1920s/ladies-1920s-sweaters/ 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

Sport jacket - Jada Cordon 

Sport jackets were just sack jackets worn for leisure time. The British called them lounge coats. “They were shaped like a suit jacket, but often had multiple large patch pockets and one or two button closure. They were sold without vests and in lighter tropical weight wools.” 

https://vintagedancer.com/1900s/1910s-mens-casual-clothing-outfit-ideas/ “Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

 Stetson (hat) McKelle Marshall 

John Stetson’s arduous experiences trying to prospect for gold may not have been a huge success, but he noticed a gap in the market. His old hatmaking instincts kicked in when he saw how poorly outfitted Americans were who made the trek out West. There was, as yet, not an agreed-upon Western hat. Most people came out with the hats that had served them well in the cities of the East—top hats, bowlers, and derbies. But with relatively narrow brims, these hats couldn’t quite stand up to life out in the elements. When settlers did have wide-brimmed hats, they were often made of wool, which would droop when soaked and were hard to repair and reshape. Stetson knew that fur felt hats would serve their purposes better and even made a couple prototypes while voyaging out West. The widest-brimmed model he made while out West started out as a joke, but was promptly bought by a passing cowboy. 

The Boss hat was offered in only two colors to start, black and a pearl-gray white. Cowboys in Texas preferred the black ones with a wider brim, while riders up in Montana chose the white, albeit with a narrower brim that was less likely to be swept off their heads in high winds. 

https://www.heddels.com/2018/12/history-behind-stetson-quintessential-cowboy-hat/ 

When his health got better in 1865, Stetson returned to east and with $100 for tools he opened a small hat making business in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. In the beginning he made hats that were copies of the modern hats at the time but then he decided to use his experiences from his western traveling and made a hat called “Boss of the Plains”. It was a hat with four inch flat brim, crown with straight sides, rounded corners and symmetrical on all sides without creases. It had a sweat band to protect inside of the hat and a hatband that helped adjusting the size so the hat could stand firmly on the head. The hat was durable, waterproof and lightweight and despite its high cost it became very popular among the cowboys because of those qualities. Soon Stetson started mass production of his hats and his company lasts to this day. 

http://www.historyofhats.net/hat-history/history-of-stetson-cowboy-hat/ 

Straw boater - Elizabeth Gibbons 

Straw boaters are hats made of stiff straw with a flat-topped crown tied off with a petersham ribbon. It was worn in the summer by both men and women of the middle and working class, and was popular from the 1890s through the 1920s. Intended for casual wear and activities such as tennis, picnicking, sporting events, and garden parties, the rule of thumb was not to wear this hat with a black frock-coat or more formal wear of any kind. 

https://www.hathistory.org/dress/ 

http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/strawboater.html 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

Trilby hat - Angel Cooper 

The trilby has a much shorter brim. The Fedora, and its little brother, the Trilby, are two of the most famous and timeless of all men’s hats. Both invented in the early 1890s, the Fedora and the Trilby remained largely popular into the 1960s. Since then, their popularity dropped significantly, but in the 2000s, they have returned to style thanks to recent 1930s-era gangster-films and TV shows that have been flashing across the television-screens of the world. The Fedora was invented in 1891, and the Trilby in 1894. The Fedora features a wide brim, a hat-band or ribbon and a pinched and indented crown. The Trilby is similarly shaped, but typically has a shorter brim (and a tighter upturning at the back). Both hats are traditionally made of rabbit or beaver felt and come in both firm and soft varieties. The trilby is a hat first popularized by a hat worn in a certain stage adaptation of George du Maurier’s novel Trilby, and the name stuck. It was not immediately popularized, but rather was worn as a “rich man’s” hat in the early part of the twentieth century, and then mostly only in Britain. The trilby hat didn’t resurface until the ‘70s, when it appeared on the popular scene as part of the retro movement, but it disappeared again, along with the popular wear of men’s fedora hats and hats in general. The popular use of the trilby again resurfaced in the very early twenty first century, and it was it was from the trilby’s use then that the confusion between the men’s trilby and the men’s fedora began. 

https://www.throughouthistory.com/?p=1814 

https://www.hatsinthebelfry.com/blog/trilby-vs-fedora-the-difference-between-these-hat-styles.html 

‘S’ Curve silhouette - Angel Cooper 

To create this contrived silhouette, gowns and undergarments were designed to help women emulate this shapely figure. To achieve this look, women wore special corsets that cinched them in at their natural waistline. A billowing, puffy blouse helped achieve the look of a large, exaggerated chest. Similarly, special skirts made their hips and rear shapelier in appearance. These feminine gowns also featured design elements that were popular in fashion at the time, including ruffled sleeves, tiered layers of fabric, and touches of lace. Special corsets acted as an important foundation for this desirable look. Unlike the corsets used during the Victorian Era, Edwardian corsets were designed with a straight front. Also known as “duck bill corsets” or “heath corsets,” these corsets forced the chest forward while cinching in the waist and making the hips jut out in the back. Women also were known for adding padding or handkerchiefs to their bustline to make the S-curve more prominent These corsets also gave women what was known as a “monobosom.” To further achieve this specific look, a bustle or padding was added to the rear of the floor length skirt to exaggerate the hips and rear. 

https://www.wardrobeshop.com/blogs/edwardian-era/edwardian-era-fashion-s-shaped-silhouette 

https://glamourdaze.com/history-of-womens-fashion/1900-to-1919