FCS 490R Fashion History. Terms and Definitions. Chapter Eighteen

Chapter Eighteen

Chapter 18 Vocab 1960-1980

 

Bell Bottom pants- Nora Terry 

Blue jeans were popular in the early 1960’s. There was a predominant style call hip huggers that had bell-bottom legs. They fit smoothly across the hips often made with a facing rather than a waistband on top. Bell bottoms were derived from the shape of the pant legs of sailor’s uniforms. These flared bottoms were designed originally to make it easier for men who fell into the sea and needed to remove their clothing to swim to pull off the trousers without catching them on their shoes. 

Corn-row braids - Nora Terry

- a traditional African way of arranging the hair in myriad small braids were worn by women in the 1970 and after. 

 Dashiki- Amber Davidson 

Textbook: Collarless wide shirts with kimono type sleeves, or with a caftan dress (long, lightweight dresses that hang loose on the body). Fabric was usually kente cloth, which was complex, elaborate, multicolored woven designs made by narrow strip looms. After accomplishments of the civil rights movement in the 1960s, African culture, traditions, and art were expressed. Many African Americans adopted styles in dress that reflected their African heritage. 

https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/Dashiki-AfricanFashion1960s 

https://timeline.com/harlem-couple-afrocentric-fashion-dashiki-2e806f792794 

Fake Fur- Amber davidson 

Goes by many names: Mock fur, imitation fur, simulated fur, fabric fur, faux fur. Conservationists began to speak out against the use of certain real animals for fur in the mid 60s. The faux-fur industry saw an opportunity. By the 1970s, the fur coat had transformed from a desirable commodity to a target of animal rights activism. 

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/history-faux-fur-180953984/ 

https://fashionista.com/2018/01/fake-faux-fur-history 

Geometric haircut- Staci moore 

The "geo" in geo haircut stands for "geometric" shapes and angles: triangles, rectangles, circles or diamonds. Geo haircuts are all about precision and simple shapes.This geo style shows two distinct steps. Antonio Berardi defines his geo hairstyles with three lines, one across the forehead, one above the ear, and one in the neck. This hairstyle gives you a fantastically attractive and genuinely radical look. It emphasizes symmetry and geometry, giving your face a well-defined look, amiable and attractive at the same time. You will surely love to be a bit experimental with this kind of unique hairstyle. 

https://www.schwarzkopf.com/en/hair-styling/hairstyle-trends-for-women/geo-haircut.html 

https://www.short-haircut.com/15-great-short-straight-haircuts.html 

Granny dresses- Maggie Morton 

Long daytimes dresses which were popular among young women in the early 1970s. They derived from the previous mod and hippie styles. Some even had design elements that nodded back to earlier historical periods. They were usually floor-length dresses with long sleeves and high necks.

 

 “Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

http://www.skooldays.com/categories/fashion/fa1406.htm 

https://www.mintmoda.com/granny-takes-trip/ 

Hip Huggers- Staci moore. 

Hip huggers are tightly fitted pants whose waistline has been dropped below the natural waist of the wearer. Hip huggers usually have flared or bell-bottom legs, and the dropped waist can vary from hanging modestly just below the waist to a sitting several inches below the navel. Hip huggers often have no built-in waistband but are frequently worn with wide belts. First worn by the "mods," British fashion trendsetters of the 1960s, hip huggers were popular with both men and women throughout the 1970s. They have come back into fashion several times since, both as 1970s nostalgia and as new designer fashions in the early twenty-first century. During the late 1960s and early 1970s, hip huggers were widely worn by young people, from high school students to hippies, youth who rebelled against the norms of society. The so-called sexual revolution of the times called for a freer, looser style with regard to expressing one's sexuality, and sexy, revealing hip huggers fit in perfectly. While the first hip huggers exposed only the navel, more extreme designs were produced, which barely covered the wearer's bottom. Low-slung hip hugger pants exposed the bare midriff (the area below the breasts and above the waist) on both men and women. 

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Hip-Huggers.html 

Read more: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-Part-II-1961-1979/Hip-Huggers.html#ixzz6fOC6qGsi 

Hot Pants - Jada 

Hot pants were very short and tight pants that the women would wear. They were “launched by fashion designer Mary Quant during the " Swinging London " scene of the mid-1960s , and they were very popular up to the early 1970s.” They were meant to emphasize the buttocks and legs. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://vintagenewsdaily.com/hot-pants-of-the-1970s/ 

https://www.bygonely.com/hotpants-fashion-1970s/ 

Hippies - Jada Cordon 

People part of the hippie movement that stood for love and peace. They were anti war. They believed that life should not be conformed to one “straight” way of living. “Everyone had the right to be”. Most of them were young and came from middle class families. They wore free flowing clothes, lots of colors and jewelry, and long hair & beards. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://www.britannica.com/topic/hippie 

https://www.history.com/news/vietnam-war-hippies-counter-culture

Jumpsuit - Elizabeth Gibbons 

Jumpsuits were originally created in 1919 as functional wear for parachuters when jumping from planes. In the 1970s, jumpsuits were created in multiple styles and worn for most occasions. Versions of the fitted jumpsuit style would include space-age plastic jumpsuits, sportswear jumpsuits, and leather jumpsuits. Elvis Presley was one famous figure known to wear a jumpsuit. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/vogues-fashion-encyclopedia-the-jumpsuit 

http://elvis-presley-forever.com/elvis-jumpsuits.html 

https://www.vintag.es/2019/08/70s-womens-jumpsuit.html

Longuette: Emma Yochim 

A skirt that reached to the mid-calf, the start of the midi skirt. The concept was applied to both skirts and dresses. The word longuette is referring to the length of the skirt. The skirt represented modesty because of the length and simple design. 

https://www.nytimes.com/1970/02/26/archives/origin-of-the-longuette-or-as-they-say-in-paris-le-long-look.html 

Maxi skirt, Midi skirt, Mini skirt : Emma Yochim 

All of the skirts are referring to the length of them. The Maxi skirt is a skirt of dress going all the way or pat the ankles. The Midi skirt is a skirt or dress going to about mid calf. And the Mini skirt is a skirt or dress that ends well above the knee. This was the first time that skirts and dresses varied so much in their lengths. The start of the mini skirts was the shortest skirts in all time except for bathing suits, sports, and dancing. Each length of skirt had it’s time and place but it provided women with a lot of variety when it came to dressing. The min skirts were most popular among teengers and young women. 

Mods- Maggie Morton 

The mod style originally started in London in the late 50s, then it eventually spread all around the world throughout the 60s. The look was creative, bold, colorful, and modern. The hemlines were quite short which were miniskirts, and the silhouette was simple. The Beatles and Twiggy were strong influencers of mod fashion. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

https://time.com/4978502/mod-fashion-1960s/ 

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/mod-culture-sixties-fashion 

Nehru Jacket - Rebecca Odd 

The Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women, with a mandarin collar, and with its front modelled on the Indian achkan or sherwani, a garment worn by Jawaharlal Nehru, the Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. 

https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-types-styles/nehru-jacket 

https://www.ifdcouncil.org/the-history-of-the-nehru-jacket/ 

No-bra bra - Rebecca Odd 

A sheer gossamer like nylon mesh was all that was needed and the 'NO BRA' bra set woman free while giving minimal support. 

https://viavtgvoxpop.com/products/rare-museum-quality-designer-vintage-1960s-nos-rudi-gernreich-iconic-mod-no-bra-bra 

http://shshistory.com/extra%20pages/Feminist%20FashionEllie%20Abbott.pdf 

Mondrian dress - Allison Boyes 

The Mondrian in 1965, Yves Saint Laurent created a series of color-blocked wool and jersey shift dresses, inspired by the Dutch Abstract Impressionist, Piet Mondrian, dubbed the ‘Mondrian Look.”. YSL was designing for the minimalist and mod fashion that was trending at the time. being printed, the dresses were made of pre-dyed fabrics, each colour in their design being an individual piece of fabric.[3] Saint Laurent experimented with the interplay of lines by integrating them in the seams of the garment and giving a seemingly seam-free construction. Although the overall effect appeared simple, the technique was complex and required precision cutting and work-intensive haute couture techniques to achieve successfully, making the dresses expensive.[5] Watch this video to see the construction of a mondrian dress from the real collection 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vsvIThDTn0 

This is Tableau I, 1921, Kunstmuseum Den Haag. The medium is oil on canvas.

 

Sources: 

http://fashionhistorian.net/blog/2012/07/30/ysl-modrian/#:~:text=On%20August%202%201965%2C%20Yves,and%20mod%20fashion%20of%20youth. 

https://www.complex.com/style/2013/04/the-50-best-artist-collaborations-in-fashion/yves-saint-laurent-x-piet-mondrian 

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75489/the-mondrian-collection-cocktail-dress-saint-laurent-yves/ 

Pop Art

Pop Art emerged in the mid 1950s in Britain and late 1950s in America and pop peaked in the 1960s. It began as a revolt against the standard approach to art and the traditional views on what art should be. Younger generation artists felt like what they were taught at art school and what they saw in museums were so far removed from what they saw in their everyday lives. Many sources of inspiration for pop art include; Hollywood movies, advertising, product packaging, pop music and comic books. “ Modernist critics were horrified by the pop artists’ use of such ‘low’ subject matter and by their apparently uncritical treatment of it.” Pop Art conveyed a message of optimism during the post war consumer boom of the 1950's and 1960's and coincided with the globalisation of pop music and youth culture. Pop Art was loud, rebellious and fun compared to previous artistic establishments. “ Pop artists strove for straightforwardness in their work, using bold swaths of primary colors, often straight from the can or tube of paint. They adopted commercial advertising methods like silkscreening, or produced multiples, downplaying the artist’s hand and subverting the idea of originality and preciousness” Well known artists during this time include; Roy Fox Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns, and James Rosenquist. 

Sources: https://www.tate.org.uk/art/art-terms/p/pop-art#:~:text=Pop%20art%20is%20an%20art,Whaam! 

https://belgraviagallery.com/blog_article/pop-art-a-brief-history/ 

https://www.moma.org/learn/moma_learning/themes/pop-art/ 

Paper dress: Lexy Holman 

In 1966 the Scott Paper company produced some paper dresses as part of a promotion for its paper products. The original manufacturer had no interest in manufacturing paper dresses, but the positive consumer response led other manufacturers to pick up on the idea. The paper dress was an uncomplicated A-line shape white unfitted style lines. The vivid, colorful prints popular at this time made the production of paper styles possible. The fad only lasted for about 2 years. A vintage shop I found on etsy was selling an Andy Warhol Cambell’s soup paper dress for 4500. 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/876286103/andy-warhol-campbell-tomatoe-can-soup?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_christmas_Art_and_Collectibles&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQiAk53-BRD0ARIsAJuNhpttfWxZhBSr807SzJFtVGqx54mSE7a7Fom8HwD8rYakU91-TZ4Q0vcaAlCnEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_1707294370_69268675129_331635229824_pla-314954651933_c__876286103_272658376&utm_custom2=1707294370&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk53-BRD0ARIsAJuNhpttfWxZhBSr807SzJFtVGqx54mSE7a7Fom8HwD8rYakU91-TZ4Q0vcaAlCnEALw_wcB 

http://costumesociety.org.uk/blog/post/dare-to-tear-paper-fashions-in-the-1960s 

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79778 

Peacock Revolution: Lexy Holman 

The Peacock Revolution refers to the huge shift in men's fashion of the 60s. The shift emerged as male musicians began experimenting with their styles. Leading up to the 1960s, menswear consisted primarily of the sober uniformity of the business suit, with a slight modification in the form of slacks and button up shirt without a tie on the weekends. Historians cite the beginning of the Peacock Revolution with The Beatles. In 1963, with the release of their first album, The Beatles introduced the collarless jacket. Soon after, collarless jackets, slim-fit trousers, and heeled boots became the rage. Over the next few years, they also introduced paisley shirts and candy-hued suits. Given that John, Paul, George, and Ringo were THE male sex symbols of the time, their colorful clothing never feminized them. Instead, they successfully blurred the lines of fashionable gender identification, challenging outdated notions of dull conformity as the only expression of true masculinity. In 1967, with the release of his first album, Jimi Hendrix carried the colorful shifts light years further. On the cover of his album Get that Feeling, Jimi wore a feathered jacket created by Dandie Fashions. Thanks to Hendrix, very masculine men courageously wore frills, lace, and feathers. They chose the softer feel of velvet, silk, and chiffon. Men's silhouettes shifted to slimmer, more feminine lines. In addition, flashy prints reminiscent of tribal African wear grew popular. All of a sudden, a whole generation of men abandoned the stuffy work wear. Instead, they wore silk kimonos, Arabian caftans, and African dashikis. A new age of self-expression for men opened up, and society shifted as the lines continued to blur into the 1970s and 1980s. David Bowie extended the peacock revolution into the 80s.

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-peacock-revolution-1960s-menswear 

https://eragem.com/news/peacock-revolution-gender-bending-fashion/

Rockers - Elizabeth Gibbons 

Rockers was a term used to describe a youth subculture in Britain in the mid-1960s. Rockers were characterized as young men who rode motorcycles, wore leather, and used a lot of hair products to maintain pompadour hairstyles. This culture was inspired partly by Elvis Presley and the greasers of the 1950s. 

“Survey of Historic Costume” by Tortora & Eubank 2011 

http://www.modrockmusical.com/history-of-mods-rockers/ 

https://allthatsinteresting.com/mods-vs-rockers 

https://www.anglotopia.net/british-identity/rockers-vs-mods-battle-subcultures-moral-panic/ 

https://www.zwcommunications.com/modsandrockers/ Skimmer